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  #21  
Old 02-17-2014, 10:16 PM
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Taildrgr Taildrgr is offline
 
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This is the only pic I have. Not much to see, just the finished pin installed.

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  #22  
Old 03-03-2014, 10:49 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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Default Torque

Quote:
Originally Posted by marcnadine View Post
Why does the gear leg bolt come from the bottom with the nut on top. I would think having the bolt coming from the top would safer. To me this just backwards.

Thanks Guys
This may be so you can properly torque the nut occasionally during inspections. Otherwise you'd never get a torque wrench on that nut from the top.
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  #23  
Old 05-01-2020, 03:06 PM
dwranda dwranda is offline
 
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Location: Jamestown,NY
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Guess I need some help! I have bought 2 reamers and they cut for a moment then just spin around in the hole while doing nothing. I am afraid the leg steel has hardened. I was able to resurrect one reamer with my dremel to produce some chips for a while. I only need to get the pin to insert about another 1/4". Would a machine shop be able to finish this off for me? I'm so tired of messing with it. Wish I would have left it alone and just kept the stock setup but now I have a tapered hole to deal with.
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  #24  
Old 05-01-2020, 04:56 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 6,522
Default Patience Grasshopper . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwranda View Post
Guess I need some help! I have bought 2 reamers and they cut for a moment then just spin around in the hole while doing nothing. I am afraid the leg steel has hardened. I was able to resurrect one reamer with my dremel to produce some chips for a while. I only need to get the pin to insert about another 1/4". Would a machine shop be able to finish this off for me? I'm so tired of messing with it. Wish I would have left it alone and just kept the stock setup but now I have a tapered hole to deal with.
I did this to my tail spike and had the same initial experience. I used a diamond hone plate to touch up the reamer every few rounds after the initial spin. 3-4 swipes on the diamond hone on each flute and ready for another cut. Your bar is still good and the non dremeled reamer is recoverable. Pitch the one you used a dremel on (or see below). Oil, firm pressure and three-four revs or less if it is not feeling like it is cutting. It takes longer to ponder than to do.

While any good machine shop can sharpen the damaged (dremel) reamer, it may cost more than a new one. Unless you have connections, and it is free.
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Last edited by BillL : 05-01-2020 at 05:04 PM.
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  #25  
Old 05-02-2020, 07:26 AM
dwranda dwranda is offline
 
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Thanks Bill I'll get the sharpeners you linked. I was wondering if a metal shop could ream the hole quicker and better than i could. It may be my last resort if i can't get anywhere with it in my garage.
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  #26  
Old 05-22-2020, 10:03 AM
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johnbright johnbright is offline
 
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Default re-sharpening the reamer is necessary

I successfully reamed for the tapered pin:
  • I'm not a machinist, YMMV.
  • Sharpening the reamer with a stone was necessary and worked great. I have a Norton FF724 stone that looks like the one ebay calls "knife blade file sharpening" "stone" or "file". Should be ~$20.
  • Should have sharpened reamer sooner than I did.
  • Drilling was done with a hand drill.
  • Lubricated generously. I used a mix of engine oil and STP because I had it. Type of lubrication might not be critical; perhaps pipe thread cutting oil is a good choice.
  • Reaming was done with a T-handle mechanic's wrench with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter followed by a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter followed by a 12-point 10 mm socket. I figure the t-handle prevents side force compared to a ratchet handle.
  • A large mechanics T-handle is important IMO (but I've seen photos where others used a tap wrench, which is smaller); it allows adequate force and torque to be applied versus a tap handle; the T on mine is 9" long.
  • Be careful not to go too far once you get close. Sharpening the reamer makes it move much faster than when it's dull and it could surprise you. 1/2" per foot taper means taking off 2.6 thousandths" on the diameter moves the reamer 1/16".

Photos here





  • Cleaned up the hole in the gear leg with a 5/16 drill bit which removed paint and burrs.
  • Cut and scraped powder coat from the edges of the bearing surfaces of the gear leg with a razor blade.
  • Cleaned powder coat from the upper bearing ID of the engine mount using MEK and Q-tips where the powder coat blew thru the bolt hole.
  • Cleaned up the holes in the engine mount with a 5/16 drill bit in assy with the gear leg. Both had powder coat and one was small.
  • Drilled the engine mount and gear leg assy with an 11/32 bit. Inserted a 5/16 AN bolt from the opposite direction to line up the assy; the drill bit pushed it out as it progressed. Ran the drill slowly and pushed hard so it was always cutting to prevent heat hardening the material.
  • Reamed the hole thru the assy of the engine mount and gear leg until pin shoulder protrudes 1/16" when it's pulled down with the nut. Cleaned chips out of reamed hole with Q-tip. Counterbore in taper pin washer is 1/8".
  • Removed, cleaned, relubricated the reamer frequently. It cut well at first with the assy on a bench attached to a wall, pushing up to maybe 30 lbs (much less at first before the cone is developed), then it stopped cutting. I put the assy on the floor so I could push harder, over 100 lbs I guess, and it cut. It stopped cutting when I was almost finished so I stoned the reamer and then it cut so fast I had to be careful not to go too far. I went back and forth about 3/4" with the stone eight times on the inside of each flute which worked great but I'm thinking fewer strokes would have worked.
  • You can hear when the reamer is cutting and of course you get chips.
  • Tightened the nut just enough to get the slack out, more than finger tight but less than snug. Then went to the next flat that lined up the nut slot with the cotter pin hole.
  • Removed .016 from the AN320 nut bearing face, to get the the cotter pin in, with a vixen file because I didn't want to ream too far. Slid the nut on the stationary file while rotating frequently rather clamping the nut and moving the file. Figure eighted the nut face with sandpaper and broke hex edges with Scothchbrite wheel. Maybe an AN310 nut would be better but having some regular and thin washers on hand would be good in that case.
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Last edited by johnbright : 11-18-2020 at 08:39 PM.
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  #27  
Old 05-26-2020, 08:53 AM
dwranda dwranda is offline
 
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Well I gave up and took it to a machine shop. They didn't have a reamer that size so they tried to use mine. They couldn't get it to cut any deeper either. What are my options? I have a reamed hole that's not deep enough for the pin. Should I drill the hole to the size of the larger end and get one of the close tolerance bolts others have described on VAF? I have bought 2 reamers and don't really want to invest a bunch more in this. I just want to move on!!!! Help!!
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  #28  
Old 05-26-2020, 09:39 AM
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rzbill rzbill is offline
 
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Better machine shop that has a #3 B&S taper ream of its own perhaps?

Alternatively, the link below goes to Walt's post with a drawing I made to give to a machine shop for EDM wire cutting the taper. It worked and got me out of the bind of having an unusable gear leg. I never compared price to a new leg. Might be similar.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...88&postcount=3
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Last edited by rzbill : 05-26-2020 at 09:45 AM.
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  #29  
Old 05-26-2020, 10:09 AM
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johnbright johnbright is offline
 
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Default it can be done at home

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwranda View Post
Well I gave up and took it to a machine shop. They didn't have a reamer that size so they tried to use mine. They couldn't get it to cut any deeper either. What are my options? I have a reamed hole that's not deep enough for the pin. Should I drill the hole to the size of the larger end and get one of the close tolerance bolts others have described on VAF? I have bought 2 reamers and don't really want to invest a bunch more in this. I just want to move on!!!! Help!!
Feel free to call me, I'd like to see if I can help, I can loan you my reamer and stone if that helps, I don't assume my reamer is special though. If the material of the leg or engine mount had hardened you would have ruined your drill bit. Cutting with the reamer will not harden the workpiece. I assume the reamer reworked with the dremel is ruined. Sharpening my reamer with the Norton FF724 stone was amazingly quick and effective. My notes are in post 26 of this thread.

seven five seven ate one two one niner oh niner
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Last edited by johnbright : 05-26-2020 at 10:22 AM.
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  #30  
Old 05-26-2020, 03:38 PM
dwranda dwranda is offline
 
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Location: Jamestown,NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnbright View Post
Feel free to call me, I'd like to see if I can help, I can loan you my reamer and stone if that helps, I don't assume my reamer is special though. If the material of the leg or engine mount had hardened you would have ruined your drill bit. Cutting with the reamer will not harden the workpiece. I assume the reamer reworked with the dremel is ruined. Sharpening my reamer with the Norton FF724 stone was amazingly quick and effective. My notes are in post 26 of this thread.

seven five seven ate one two one niner oh niner
Thanks John! I'll call this evening.
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