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  #131  
Old 08-30-2013, 07:49 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,411
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Not much progress over the last week, I've been kinda distracted with the birth of m third daughter. Everyone is doing great!


I did manage to get the throttle-mixture cables hooked up. You can also see my FAB brace.


I got the alt air cable mostly hooked up.
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  #132  
Old 08-30-2013, 08:37 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 6,557
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Andy, Congrats on the new little builder. You really don't sleep do you?

Comment and question: thanks for posting the nice clear pictures of your alternator installation. I now know where the safety wire holes can be drilled, so thanks!

I was just fitting mine a couple of days ago and found that the two 05-06 bolts that thread into the case and starter respectively needed additional washers to avoid interference with the case threads. I see yours only have one washer. I have the Vans supplied IO360 and threaded them up by hand only to find they would not thread down snug. The grip length on the bolts is greater than the thickness of the arms+washer. Maybe the thread relief on my case is different. Did you find any interference?
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  #133  
Old 08-30-2013, 11:10 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,411
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Thanks Bill.

I just drilled the safety wire holes where they were convienent. I cleaned out almost every threaded (baffle screws/CHT probe) hole on my engine case carefully with a tap. I did this when I was working on the baffles and found the screws bottomed out before they were tight. My engine was overhauled and I think some gunk gets crammed in the holes over time. Being a new engine I'm not sure, but the bolts from plane master worked fine on my engine after cleaning out the threads. Probably good to double check with your engine supplier (vans?) about the bolts just to make sure.Good luck!

Last edited by crabandy : 08-30-2013 at 11:16 PM.
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  #134  
Old 08-31-2013, 07:37 AM
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tkatc tkatc is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,747
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Congrats man!!

On your ALT air bolt....I discovered something called a "bug nut". Seems to work well and is intended for just such a thing.
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  #135  
Old 08-31-2013, 03:54 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
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TKATC, I found it after I had already countersunk the hole on the alt air door. Easy enough to redo later but I went with what I had on hand, a countersunk screw/washers/metal locknuts.

I bought the rodend bearing with the stud to use in place of the bugnut for the carb heat but the threads on the rodend are steeper than the standard 10/32. I fashioned the other piece with the angle from some spare parts with the bugnut. Others had posted the bugnut directly on the carb heat arm just wallows out the hole.


Carb heat off.

Carb heat on.

I made a little bracket out of .063 to hold the G3X antenna on the engine mount wirh an adel clamp under the cowling. I set a ruler on top of the firewall to the top of the baffling to simulate the cowling for clearance. I don't think it will get shadowed by the firewall or baffles. Now to make one last firewall passthrough for the antenna cable.

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  #136  
Old 09-03-2013, 10:24 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,411
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A little bit of sleep does wonders! I finally made it back to the garage well rested, I took a 2 min look at the control stick wiring and had a solution. I've probably spent 2-3 hours staring at it without any progress.

On the pilot stick I used DB pins to connect the 3 wires and heat shrink to hold it all together.


I ran the grip wires out of the bottom of the stick and back up the stick to the pivot point.

I secured the wires to the stick with silicone tape and zip ties. Securing the wire close to the pivot point seems to work well for wire strain relief and fitting into the wiring run.

The passenger stick utilizes a AMP MateNLock connector so I can remove the copilot stick. I ran the wires on the outside of the lower stick, the stick boot will cover the wires.

Last edited by crabandy : 09-03-2013 at 10:27 PM.
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  #137  
Old 09-04-2013, 08:19 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,411
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I bought a $12 garden sprayer and some various tubing to make a brake bleeder. The sprayer worked excellent I need to come up with a better sprayer hose to brake bleeder nipple connection and it would be mess free. I used a screw in connection to provide an overflow for the reservoir.


My tech counselor made fun of my cartoonishly large brake line loops so I shortened them up.

I like my new Rigid flaring tool,
1: crimp tubing in tool
2: cut tubing with hacksaw
3: file tubing flat with face of flaring tool
4: deburr tubing
5 : reset the tubing just shy of flush with the flaring tool and make the flare gently with some lube. 1 turn forward 1/2 turn back




My new smaller brake line service loop.

I added an adel clamp to the brake lines at the firewall.
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  #138  
Old 09-05-2013, 11:47 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,411
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I sealed up the firewall passthroughs and secured the remaining FWF things with Stand offs and zip ties. I also completed the small list of things my tech counselor mentioned. I installed the elevator pushrod, I have enough up elevator but it looks like I need to grind the stop to get enough down elevator. I also connected the cabin heat cable. Come on first flight!
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  #139  
Old 09-06-2013, 06:50 AM
g zero g zero is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: palm coast fl.
Posts: 1,033
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Might want to check the flair angle , I do believe that's a plumbing / AC fairing tool , wrong flair angle for AN fittings .
Tom
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  #140  
Old 09-06-2013, 08:23 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Ottawa, Ks
Posts: 2,411
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Tom, it's the Rigid RFT 37* from Genuine Aircraft Hardware. Thanks for keeping an eye on me though!
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com...ess_Tubing.pdf
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