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  #41  
Old 03-01-2012, 11:58 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
I have used the same spec of 50 to 100 fc for RV assembly, but try to design for the higher end of 100 fc at a working height of 3 ft - easy to do with the Visual software.

As we get older, more light is better, so add a few more fixtures and get 100 fc to make your eyes a little happier...

If you are doing the installation yourself using 8 ft fixtures gives less electrical connections and may even work out to be a bit cheaper.
Yes, 8' fixtures, but 4' lamps. I have even done some continuous rows. Fixture selection is very job and owner specific.
100 fc over a work bench, great, through the whole shop, overkill. To keep the energy usage down, I would suggest putting a dedicated work light over your work bench or areas where you perfomr fine tasks.
Footcandle level recommendations from the IES (Illuminating Engineers Society) continue to come down as the quality of lighting goes up. "See-ability", the ability for us to see is much better when the quality of the lighting is much better, like higher CRI lamps, lower glare fixtures, less point sources being used, like the older Metal Halides, and the introduction of higher lighting angles in our general illumination. All these are helping to increase the quality of our lighting.
Your are absolutely correct in that the older we get the more light we need. There is an entire dedicated science on lighting and the aging eye. Again, I feel you are better served with dedicated task lighting where you need it for fine tasks.

Visual software has been mentioned here. This software was developed many years ago for Lithonia Lighting. My company has represented Lithonia Lighting for over 50 years in Oregon and SW Washington. We use Visual on a daily basis, although our version is the Pro version, which is not free. However, for simple hangar/shop applications, the free Visual is more than adequate. Just remember, as good as the software is, garbage in, garbage out. You still need to understand reflectances, ballast factors, dirt and lamp deprectiation, etc.... or your end result may not be what the computer spit out.
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  #42  
Old 03-01-2012, 01:06 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
Yes, 8' fixtures, but 4' lamps. I have even done some continuous rows. Fixture selection is very job and owner specific.
100 fc over a work bench, great, through the whole shop, overkill. To keep the energy usage down, I would suggest putting a dedicated work light over your work bench or areas where you perfomr fine tasks.
Footcandle level recommendations from the IES (Illuminating Engineers Society) continue to come down as the quality of lighting goes up. "See-ability", the ability for us to see is much better when the quality of the lighting is much better, like higher CRI lamps, lower glare fixtures, less point sources being used, like the older Metal Halides, and the introduction of higher lighting angles in our general illumination. All these are helping to increase the quality of our lighting.
Your are absolutely correct in that the older we get the more light we need. There is an entire dedicated science on lighting and the aging eye. Again, I feel you are better served with dedicated task lighting where you need it for fine tasks.

.
I think some of the reduced illumination levels is for energy savings rather than being able to see...

I do agree that extra light is needed over workbenches, etc. but I personally am much happier with the older (but new IES "Aircraft Inspection" category) level of 100 fc. My 18 x 25 x 10 high shop reaches 100 ft candles with less than 900 watts, which is less than 2.2 cents an hour - and I pay commercial AZ rates since I have a separate supply to my hangar.

This is $190 per year if I left the lights on 24/7, be good on your eyes, go a little higher in fc. rather than the bottom end of the spec.

However, there is an easy solution - use the 8 ft fixtures with 4 ft bulbs like you say and just switch every other bulb off for general use (50 fc) and all bulbs on when you are doing more delicate work (100 fc). It's a simple thing to do if you are setting up a new shop.

I do understand the lighting calcs, as a past IES member I was chief engineer for a light measuring instrument company...
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  #43  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila View Post
My 18 x 25 x 10 high shop reaches 100 ft candles with less than 900 watts, which is less than 2.2 cents an hour - and I pay commercial AZ rates since I have a separate supply to my hangar.

This is $190 per year if I left the lights on 24/7, be good on your eyes, go a little higher in fc. rather than the bottom end of the spec.
That's less than 2 cents a kwh. Wow. I thought we where good at 8 cents.
I rarely light spaces that small, so by all means, light that sucker up.
People rarely complain about having too much light.
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  #44  
Old 03-01-2012, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
That's less than 2 cents a kwh. Wow. I thought we where good at 8 cents.
I rarely light spaces that small, so by all means, light that sucker up.
People rarely complain about having too much light.
My mistake, I did read the bill, but not all of the lines...

It's $0.075 per KwHr, but still only $150 for a full year of 40 hr workweeks. I did split my lights into 2 circuits and in daytime just one circuit is usually OK.

I'm not sure if many builders have much bigger spaces to work in, so make it easy on your eyes...
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  #45  
Old 03-05-2013, 01:24 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Not one for originality, I copied the lighting suggested at the beginning of this thread long ago. Finally got them installed this morning, sure makes a quick and effective lighting solution for me.
[IMG][/IMG]
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  #46  
Old 03-15-2013, 01:59 PM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Default a drop light you can actually DROP !

An old lamp socket + wire + plug + CFL bulb + cottage cheese container ...

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  #47  
Old 03-16-2013, 12:37 AM
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Snowflake Snowflake is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
Ok, Temporary Light Strings are listed under UL1088. NEC dictates that these lights are to be used during construction, maintenance, repair, remodel, etc... of your building. They may be used for decorative purposes for up to 90 days.
Of course, if you hang them from open hooks on the rafters, and run the wires in similar, open, hooks, then the entire thing is temporary and can be pulled out at any time without tools. So nothing permanent here.

And of course they're there so you could do maintenance...
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  #48  
Old 03-16-2013, 08:13 AM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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I used simple plastic tie wraps to hang mine, no contact with the metal trusses that way if they ever overheat or want to short out.
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  #49  
Old 03-16-2013, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by humptybump View Post
An old lamp socket + wire + plug + CFL bulb + cottage cheese container ...

I am digging into code listings, violations, insurance risks, and maybe even patent infringement suits
(Teasing) I love it! Human ingenuity at it's best.
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  #50  
Old 10-22-2013, 01:24 PM
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Moondog Moondog is offline
 
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Default PVC floor lamp

Here's my PVC floor lamp. Since the hangar is not mine, I can't modify the lighting, so this works very well. It can be moved and positioned easily with one hand. And the owner, who graciously allows me to use his hangar at no charge, appreciates that I never turn on his sodium vapor lights.

The top rotates. The 4 lights can be positioned in any position which allows me to get very good light inside and outside the fuse without moving the fixture.



This shows the threaded connection allowing rotation. It shows 1" pvc at the top, but the rest is made from I believe 1-1/4". Very stable. The lights have about 7' of clearance. Would make some minor changes if I had to do it over, but it does well as is.
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Last edited by Moondog : 10-22-2013 at 01:25 PM. Reason: text
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