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  #1  
Old 08-20-2012, 09:55 AM
Daniel S. Daniel S. is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
Posts: 315
Default Removable Rudder Bottom Fairing

Okay guys.
An opinion question here. I've come to the realization that I am going to make my bottom rudder fairing removable for several preferential reasons... Should I go with #6 or #8 screws. I bought some #8 tinnerman CS washers that I was going to use for this task but the diameter of the washers is too big and overlaps the aluminum skin. This morning, I went ahead and ordered some "normal" #6 & #8 CS washers... We'll see what fits best in this area. Are there any concerns with using #6 screws?
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RV7-A (528KS)
-Empannage Done.
-Electrical System Planning / Schematic Done.
-Wing Kit Delivered 09/13/12.
-Wings 95% Done Flaps & Electrical to go.
-Have got to order the fuse soon!!!!.

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  #2  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:11 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
Default

For the rudder bottom, I went with #6 screws and no washers. If it needs washers, they will be added later.

Watch out for the trailing two screws, they should be staggered so they don't interfere with each other.
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:17 AM
jimgreen jimgreen is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Vancouver island, BC Canada
Posts: 397
Default

Lot's of builders use #6, including me. No down side that I'm aware of. Why would you use tinnerman washers in that application? The fairing isn't going to come off very often so wear isn't an issue, and you don't need them for strength.
If you go without the washers then #8 should also work just fine. Slightly more weight at the tail end which is a consideration for some.
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  #4  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:20 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,639
Default

What are the advantages of making this removable?
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  #5  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:25 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,014
Default Access.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bavafa View Post
What are the advantages of making this removable?
Access to the position light in the tail bottom.
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:28 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
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Default

What Bill said, X2.
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:29 AM
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Mark Dickens Mark Dickens is offline
 
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Location: Collierville, TN (KFYE)
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Default

If access is your only concern, buy one of these:

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/prodin...R#.UDJXbaMvm9s
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:36 AM
Paul K Paul K is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Default

Here's what I did:





Not flying yet but have seen it done elsewhere.
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:38 AM
Daniel S. Daniel S. is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lawrenceville, Georgia
Posts: 315
Default

Thanks guys... # 6 it is .

Mark. I actually do have that adaptor ring. The reason I personally want access is wiring. I am running an extra wire back there just "incase" I get noise with the local ground or if I ever want a different light. etc.
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DANIEL S.
RV7-A (528KS)
-Empannage Done.
-Electrical System Planning / Schematic Done.
-Wing Kit Delivered 09/13/12.
-Wings 95% Done Flaps & Electrical to go.
-Have got to order the fuse soon!!!!.

[/font]http://www.mykitlog.com/dschoning/
"This is a first-time event, and we're looking forward to it"... Chuck Yeager
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2012, 11:14 AM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
Default I never use anything smaller than #8 - no problem

If the outer surface on a lap joint is aluminum I typically dimple the aluminum.

If it is some development work and I am using soft aluminum (6061-O) as the outer surface of a joint I drill the holes in the outer surface (like my outlet fairing) to 3/8" and use dimpled washers. This allows the dimpled portion of the washer to go down in the hole and the flat portion of the washer to clamp the joint together.

Anytime I am working with soft material like fiberglass of plexiglass as the outer surface I do the same as above with soft aluminum - 3/8" hole in the outer piece of material in the joint to allow the wide distribution of pressure clamping as well as centering function.

Mating hole alignment perfection is difficult no matter how hard you try. I have a procedure that works pretty well but It takes longer to explain than most peoples attention span on such things. It involves such things as 1/8" holes and clecoes for the initial mating hole pattern with holes enlarged later to suit the application (in this type of situation - #8 flathead screw - I enlarge the screw hole to 3/16"). Even with all of my best precision effort I still have screws that bind somewhere in the pattern occasionally as I try to install them. Sometimes this can be fixed by enlarging a hole slightly and in worst cases I replace the one piece platenut at a binding location with a floating platenut.

I mounted the lower rudder cap only with screws and I did it because of the light installation. Many people don't - it's a personal choice. Some people add holes and access panels as they look ahead to service issues while they are still building their airplanes because of prior experience with servicing airplanes. I did not add any of those.

In 8 years of flying our airplane I have had to remove the lower rudder cap approximately three times for modification, and repair.

Bob Axsom

Last edited by Bob Axsom : 08-20-2012 at 11:17 AM.
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