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  #201  
Old 12-11-2018, 01:17 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Scott is correct

... no surprise there. But the plans not only mention deformation by clecos, but the need to fill in all but the remaining round portion of the keyhole created by the round file. And he brings up a point I want to pick his brains on:

The bracketing of the bracket by the flox no doubt lessens the shear load on the screws when taxiing over bumps (for which Hop-Along Aerodrome is aptly named). But there is this caveat in the plans:

"If the epoxy/flox is allowed to engulf the edges of the bracket the fairings will be difficult to remove. Prevent this by using clay or shims to add thickness to the outboard side of the bracket especially near the edges."

I can imagine it would make it difficult to get the pants free of the bracket after this stuff sets up. Is it a question of how much "engulfing" goes on? It seems like any is going to make it difficult to pull the pants back off, but maybe I'm overthinking the difficulty, given how flexible the pieces are.
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  #202  
Old 12-11-2018, 01:38 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default one other thing

I believe Scott's caution about the screws vs clecos applies only to the common spring-type, which would deform the pant unacceptably.

I realized too late after drilling the #36 holes that, as a SilPruf window installation veteran, I had a good supply of a cleco type that might just avoid this issue - as well as the need to tap all those temporary holes in the brackets. Probably won't be able to use these now that the holes are 4 drill number sizes too large for them - my bad. Might help someone else who has wing-nut clecos in their shop, though.

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  #203  
Old 12-12-2018, 06:29 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default Update on wheel pant fitting

Went back to the shop last night and tried on a pant after the reinforcing plies of fiberglass around the preliminary mounting holes had cured 24 hours. Rechecked Plumb Bob and all his buddies. I was astonished to see that only one of the six holes in the pant were anywhere within 3/16" of where they needed to be to line up with the holes in the bracket. I lay there on the floor beside the main wheel and tried to wrap my head around any possible explanation. A shift of the pant to align more of the holes was physically impossible due to the size of the existing cutouts for the tire and leg, as well as the fixation imposed by the bolt in the axle nut extension.

In the end, I re-drilled 5 of the holes using the Christmas lights on a stick trick someone mentioned here for back-lighting. That was a life saver of a trick. I am unable to explain the misaligned holes, being confident of the pains taken to realign everything exactly as it was before, but I would recommend an alternate technique: drilling the holes in the brackets first, then installing and aligning the pants, then back-lighting the holes and marking/drilling the pants based on the light spot as a reference. Aiming for an ink mark through the semitransparent wheel pant into an angled bracket ear introduces some considerable potential for error, at least in my case.

I plan to follow the recommended procedure for final fitment using 6-32 screws and mold release. This will have to wait till after the kids and grandkids come to visit this weekend. Family first!!!
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  #204  
Old 12-12-2018, 12:50 PM
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daddyman daddyman is offline
 
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Default You are up to the task

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Say hello to my little friend Bob. Plumb Bob.

Cutting and fitting to reference points in thin air. Don't. let. anything. shift. Drill through fiberglass into landmarks you can barely see - at an angle. This may be the part of the story where I jump off a bridge.

Not sure; those that have gone before say the cowling will also be... "interesting."

Bill,
Although this may be a tense timing, you are definitely up to the task.

Daddyman
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  #205  
Old 12-12-2018, 09:23 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default

Daddyman, I got it done. Epoxy shims under the temporary screws are setting up, getting ready for the final few steps. This is a sit-back-and-savor-the-moment moment.

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  #206  
Old 12-14-2018, 08:34 AM
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steve murray steve murray is offline
 
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Default RV10 Wheel Pant not transparent

Prereading RV10 plans last night flying home in the center seat of the silver tube, the Bold instructions state wheel pants must remain transparent!!, do not sand paint, etc....

My pants are the dark grey fiberglass....not transparent at all. What technique are folks using to drill holes in these dark grey parts?
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  #207  
Old 12-14-2018, 09:31 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve murray View Post
Prereading RV10 plans last night flying home in the center seat of the silver tube, the Bold instructions state wheel pants must remain transparent!!, do not sand paint, etc....

My pants are the dark grey fiberglass....not transparent at all. What technique are folks using to drill holes in these dark grey parts?
Read the addendum within Section 5 for details on working with gelcoated fiberglass parts.
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  #208  
Old 12-14-2018, 09:33 AM
YvesCH YvesCH is offline
 
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Default

I pointed a cross laser at the hole and then mounted the Wheel fairing.
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  #209  
Old 12-14-2018, 10:19 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Default

Yves, you have a tool I don't. Good idea, though. I should probably consider using a laser of some sort for cowl fitment one day.

In blatant disregard for the plans (which section I had not read at that point) I used some summer afternoons in the rocking chair to give the wheel pants the DanH pin hole treatment - neat epoxy wipe followed by a thorough wet-sand. The result is my pants are semi-opaque, but a quick wipe with a spit-finger makes them as transparent as needed for a minute
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RV-10 - N130YD - 50 hours +
65 years running stock DNA
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  #210  
Old 12-16-2018, 11:11 AM
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BlackhawkSP BlackhawkSP is offline
 
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Location: Indianapolis
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Say hello to my little friend Bob. Plumb Bob.

Cutting and fitting to reference points in thin air. Don't. let. anything. shift. Drill through fiberglass into landmarks you can barely see - at an angle. This may be the part of the story where I jump off a bridge.

Not sure; those that have gone before say the cowling will also be... "interesting."

The great thing about plumb bobs, and transparent tubing in it as a water level, is that they will never lie to you:-). A water level in tubing can have ends hundreds of feet apart and will still be perfectly level.Simple, but elegant.
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