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  #61  
Old 12-09-2017, 11:01 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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After the arduous journey of getting all the ribs in and using up about 20 hours of my dads time I finally got back to doing fun things and fabricated/assembled some pieces.

20171028_202304 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Do you see any foreshadowing taking place in the picture below?!?!?!?

20171029_125416 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

First time using safety wire, took about 3 tries to get it how I wanted it.

20171029_160048 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Some anti-hangup guides

20171029_162544 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #62  
Old 12-09-2017, 11:16 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Well I reached out to the "local" EAA chapter and within a couple of days the president and a couple other gents flew down to take a look at my project. The president flew down in his Lancair as well as a guy in his -6A. I took em out to breakfast and they said I was doing great on the project. These guys live up in Cody, WY about 1.5 hours drive from me. Another gent that came down with the pack is a Gulfstream pilot and a fellow builder, although I can't remember what he is building. It was great to talk among pilots again and I can't wait until summer so I can be more active in the chapter. The pack is usually bigger but winds were forecast to be upwards of 30kts in Cody and many people didn't want to fly in that, can you blame em?

20171021_105836 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Capture by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

It was also about time to take a break from the project and head to Vegas for a few days!

20171112_201551 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #63  
Old 12-10-2017, 08:52 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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After I came back from Vegas it was time for some rear baffle work. Installing the rear baffle took about 6-7 hours each as I scuffed the areas, cleaned them for what seemed an eternity until no more dust was coming up on the cloth, and finally sealed them.

This pic is prior to riveting ribs but a fun one none the less.

20171022_152728 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Inboard and outboard ribs complete.

20171104_204652 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Rear baffle close up.

20171119_151323 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

This was the bead on the inside of the tank. A little heavy but it didn't block the water path openings. Looks good.

20171118_174043 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Completed baffle, sure looks pretty don't it?

20171119_151312 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Access cover and fuel sender installed. Notice the metal to metal contact on two of them screws.

20171119_151337 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I decided to go with the float type fuel senders as I have heard the capacitive ones are not keen on mixing fuels. I will probably mix fuel quite often and this is the only way to get an accurate reading so I've been told.
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Last edited by jcarne : 12-10-2017 at 08:54 AM.
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  #64  
Old 12-10-2017, 09:08 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Default The big day part one.

After about a week of letting the right tank rest it was time to pressure test it! What a big day, it has been over 100 since I started the tanks and now it was coming to hopefully a close for one of them.

I took my tank outside on an abnormally warm November day here in Wyoming. Put about 25 inches on the manometer, mixed up a strong batch of water and dish soap, and went to town. I sprayed every rivet, every nook and cranny, and when I didn't see a leak I did it again! After leak checking for about 20 minutes or so I felt confident there weren't any leaks so I rewarded the tank with a nice bubble bath and shower.

I also want to point out that the manometer is extremely sensitive to temperature!!!! There is no way you should leak check a tank without physically checking for them with soapy water. The colder water in the hose would lower the pressure by as much as 10 inches, then the sun would come out behind a cloud and raise back up 10 inches. Definitely watch the manometer often to make sure it's not going over 27 inches.

Here you can see in my picture my homemade spray bottle. Mix up a batch in an old water bottle, put a tapered punch on top of the lid, give it a quick whack with a hammer and bingo!

20171125_143547 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20171125_151230 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #65  
Old 12-10-2017, 09:15 AM
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Before the baffle went on the left tank I needed to fabricate a way to attach the fuel sender in the second bay as there is a flop tube in the first. This is what I can up with.

I took a 1.5" hole saw to the rear baffle after I marked where I wanted it to be so there wouldn't be any interference with the z-bracket next to it. For anyone interested the hole goes right smack in the middle of the baffle (up and down direction)

20171125_174251 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The reinforcement ring came off the left access plate that came with the tanks. Obviously you can't use that access ring as there are all kinds of holes in it. I'm actually glad someone didn't recommend to delete this this access plate when I added the blank one for flop tube applications.

To get this ring I took the access cover to the drill press and with a fly cutter I had it in no time.

20171125_174257 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #66  
Old 12-10-2017, 09:25 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Just as a fun little sidebar...

The high school I work at recently wanted me to not only be a math teacher but to also be a shop teacher as I have experience in woodworking. I was lucky to obtain a license from the state since I have past experience in a construction trade. However, the school wants me to get the full endorsement so they are paying me to take online classes. This was one of my assignments... Video down below

20171201_165757 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

https://youtu.be/phtJpGlI_2Q
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  #67  
Old 12-10-2017, 09:42 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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After the left tanks rear baffle was on I also let it sit for about a week and then leak checked it.

20171202_141004 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

It passed so I gave it a bubble bath just like I did with the right tank.

20171202_140730 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

This is the point in time that the foreshadowing was referring to in a previous post. While putting a cap on the flop tube I felt it rotate ever so slightly. It didn't break any seals but I knew it needed to be fixed. I removed the cover and fabricated an anti rotation bracket. I'm not sure why the plans don't have you do this but once again, I strongly recommend you do!

20171202_230623 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Getting the cover off was quite easy, way easier than I thought. I also used button head screws as a lot of other builder do so that probably helped. I used an old HS angle that I messed up on to make the bracket.

20171203_113655 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20171203_124527 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I am now waiting on some PolyGone gel from Van's to clean up the access cover and a few longer rivets as I'm just going to use blind rivets. The AD-42-H rivets for the rear baffle were too short, so I had to order some AD-43-H ones.

Even though it was bad news to have to fix this, both tanks have virtually passed the leak checks and are done (with this one little exception)! It is a great feeling to be done with the tanks (for the most part).
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  #68  
Old 12-15-2017, 07:08 PM
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After working with some PolyGone Gel it was time to seal in the anti rotation bracket and hopefully have these tanks behind me! The PolyGone Gel works really well at removing the gorilla snot. It is way thicker than I thought though, not bad just unexpected.

20171215_174417 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
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  #69  
Old 12-16-2017, 07:13 AM
ryschneider ryschneider is offline
 
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Looks good Jereme, my wing tanks were not nearly this clean.
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  #70  
Old 12-16-2017, 02:26 PM
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Thanks for the comment Ryan! Hey as long as they hold fuel I guess that's all that matters in the end.
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