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  #401  
Old 03-16-2016, 07:03 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
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Location: Laguna Hills, CA
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I admire your tenacity...it's turning out great!

It's true, sometimes you just need to take three days off and stare at what you've done for a while.
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RV-9A "slider"--sold in July 2021
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019!
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  #402  
Old 03-17-2016, 01:49 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rightrudder View Post
I admire your tenacity...it's turning out great!
Thanks for the positive reinforcement!

I was able to add the soric and 1 ply of 8.9 oz glass to the inside of the plenum then covered with peel ply. I used a wet fillet of epoxy/flow in the flange to top transition of the plenum to join/blend the soric at the edges. The 1 layer of glass covered the soric and flanges of the plenum. Of course I had enough epoxy to finish it without opening the new batch that arrived today.



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  #403  
Old 03-18-2016, 08:16 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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In 30 minutes my 7 month old and I were able to clean up the plenum flanges and excess pour foam, I would defenitely use the pour foam again as a "mold" reinforcement.





There were two large air bubbles I found between the glass and the soric, I guarantee they were not there when a I left the layup for the night. The layup was rolled and stippled until all air bubbles were gone, not sure what happened. Oh well, I'll sand them out and patch with glass, I would really like to piddle with a vacuum bag setup.



I built in an extra 1/8-1/4" of clearance on the front of the plenum, this should give me 5/8-3/4" clearance between the front of the plenum and the cowl. The original metal baffling cleared the cowling by 1/2" or slightly less with no signs of contact. Not sure if the lightweight prop or rubber baffle material pushing on the cowl had anything to do with less than 1/2" clearance being enough.

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Last edited by crabandy : 03-18-2016 at 08:19 PM.
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  #404  
Old 04-12-2016, 11:41 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ks
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Whew, real life got in the way the past couple weeks and it took an hour to find my bookmark. My last couple build sessions have been filled streaming Merle Haggard, good stuff! Plenum filled and sanded, just awaiting the pinhole process.

I used the router to make some plywood disk to hold the front of the intake boot plug concentric with the inlets, the jigsaw cut some angle chunks of foam.





The cowling on the airplane, at least it still fits!



The whole glue some foam together and you have your own plug/shape thing takes more time than my usual double the estimated time and the add 25% estimate. Slow going getting the foam to fit and the glueing together with dry epoxy/micro and coarse wood screws. The very rough shape that needs to dry before I hack it up.





One of the hardest thing of this project for me was cutting my custom 7 hinge/cowling covers off, I had weeks of work in those things. So I know I wanted to carry over weeks of....eeerrr ahhhh......I mean those cool 7 covers. The new hinge pin geometry really likes a little more room so I made them slightly bigger, I'm going to try to shape some aluminum 7's this time. I made some aluminum ones last time but ended up making them from glass. I've only got a couple hours in this cardboard 7 template, it still took 4 variations of different radius's to get the 7 I liked.



One flat aluminum 7 waiting for me to final shape the cowling so I can hopefully beat it into the correct shape.

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  #405  
Old 04-13-2016, 02:42 PM
krw5927 krw5927 is offline
 
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Location: Wichita, KS
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Looks like you're getting close to being back in the air, Andy!

Lots of work. You've got more patience than I, that's for sure.
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  #406  
Old 04-13-2016, 08:53 PM
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miyu1975 miyu1975 is offline
 
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
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Nice job. Get back to flyin soon.
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  #407  
Old 04-14-2016, 10:03 AM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Thanks guys, I'm hoping to be back in the air in 5 weeks.....

Roughly sanded to fit, I think the bottom of the diffuser boot is going to take the most imagination.



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  #408  
Old 04-15-2016, 07:04 PM
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bret bret is offline
 
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Location: Gardnerville Nv.
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That is looking real GOOD! I may need to be doing something similar to what you have going on here. I like how you moved the center baffle back, is that to enhance air diffusion once inside the ducts?
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  #409  
Old 04-15-2016, 09:49 PM
crabandy crabandy is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bret View Post
That is looking real GOOD! I may need to be doing something similar to what you have going on here. I like how you moved the center baffle back, is that to enhance air diffusion once inside the ducts?
Brett, I've seen your paint pics and those look GOOD!

And all of my posts are coming from the mind of an amateur.

I also saw your baffling post, although the Van's baffles may seem like a lot of on and off trimming etc they are light years ahead of making your own. It takes lots of headscratching and building to even get to the point where you start fitting like Van's baffling. On the other hand if you have the time and the "want to" it's kinda fun, like your paint job.

Looks like you are using a SJ cowling so the standard Van's baffle seal material is out the window, mixed reviews on the performance/installation of the SJ plenum so making your own isn't too far fetched.

Again I am an amateur so it's more my perception than fact. Yes, the curved center baffling gives me a longer diffuser length and eliminates a square corner that is hopefully more efficient at turning the velocity of the incoming air into the highest pressure possible. It is an entire system concept though, larger cooling air inlets with more external diffusion that is more tolerant of sins aft of the inlets and mass flow throttled by the exit. DanH does a much better job explaining it than I do.

I'm not sure what theories are involved with the straight tube design of the SJ plenum.

Lots of work but I would use Van's baffling for the perimeter of the engine, make your own plenum and inlets. I really wanted to add tabs to my existing perimeter baffling and lay a plenum on top, but I don't think it is the best strength wise and # of fastener wise. I think it's stronger with less fasteners to use flanges on the plenum and fasteners in"shear." I can forward some old articles/studies that influenced my inlet/diffuser shapes if you like.
Good Luck!
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Last edited by crabandy : 04-15-2016 at 09:54 PM.
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  #410  
Old 04-16-2016, 09:44 AM
6 Gun 6 Gun is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 846
Smile inlets

I'm running SJ cowl with 5.25 inlets and I have a problem with cylinders running to cold and of course high oil temps on the ground.What are you planning for material between inlets and plenum for engine movement?
Bob
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