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Old 03-12-2018, 04:04 PM
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scottmillhouse scottmillhouse is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Madison, AL
Posts: 349
Default Installing stabilator cable solo

Just finished this up today and it probably took closer to 16 hours than 6. I prepped, primed and painted all parts before disassembly of the tail. No real pitfalls until reassembly.

Then spent hours getting the pivot bolts and spacing washers in. The newly boxed in structure makes access much more challenging and only from underneath. Connecting the stabilator cable tensioner solo is extremely challenging but I eventually worked out a way to do it solo. Connect the top, pull the lower cable as far forward as possible, wrap tape around the clevis body and clamp lightly with vice grips from the bottom. Insert a piece of cardboard at rear bulkhead to protect it from the vice grips. (the vice grips will push against the bulkhead and lock the lower cable position) With your right hand use the tail leverage to match holes by pulling down on the rear of the stabilator. When aligned insert a short #3 bolt in from the trim motor side. Then slowly from the right work in the correct bolt to the right clevis side to put in the spacer washer and then to the left to install washer followed by outside washer and castle nut/counter pin. Probably is impossible solo to pull the cable tension directly from the clevis and put in the bolt.

Also plan on a lot of trimming to the top rear fuselage cap faring if built per plans. The exposed plates are notched but the notch ends probably 3/8" farther to the front than the clearance previously required for the box spar. Bottom is easy, just the plate thickness.
Scott- 2021 donation
New RV-7A N579RV, just over 170 hours now
Built RV-12, 328 hours-sold, purchased RV-12 sold, Built RV-9A, 536 hours-sold, Not completed RV-7 sold, Built Kitfox sold
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