Rolled Leading Edges--advice needed

Guys--

I've rolled my Rudders leading edge, the top and bottom sections worked out nicely, the middle section, not so much. I managed to re-roll a bit, and get it together without so much "forcing", but the lap joint is really wavey, or puckered between the rivets.

Any suggestions? More rivets between each (spacing issues)? Tap with a hammer/work the edge?

Anybody out there recovered from this?

Thanks--

Joe

Edge rolling tool

Did you try to put a crease in the edge using an edge rolling tool, or something similar? If not, that might help.



Did you use duct tape all along the edge using a broom handle to roll the leading edge, or a different method?

Mickey, I've got a question. The edge forming tool you pictured is different than mine. Mine looks like a pair of vice grips with rollers. I can't make it work worth a flip. Have you used both kinds and is yours easier to use?

Thanks
Jim Wright RV-9A wings 90919 Arkansas

rv9aviator said:

Mickey, I've got a question. The edge forming tool you pictured is different than mine. Mine looks like a pair of vice grips with rollers. I can't make it work worth a flip. Have you used both kinds and is yours easier to use?

Thanks
Jim Wright RV-9A wings 90919 Arkansas

Click to expand...

Jim--your's sound like Cleavelands and, in my opinion only, are FAR superior to the round thingy that Avery sells. Because of the angle already built into the Cleavland model, you really can't overbend using them. With the Avery style you can make a real mess if you don't hold it at exactly the right (and consistently hold it at that) angle.

For the Cleaveland model, put the skin all the way into the wheels clamp it down, and then tighten the adjustment screw until it just begins to be "difficult" to PULL it toward you along the edge of the skin. Do NOT try to push it, always pull as per Cleaveland's instructions. I think it is one of Cleaveland's best tools!

Hope this helps.

Edge rolling tool

It sounds like the Cleaveland tool is a good one. I had never heard of it. The Avery works, but it's kind of trial and error. Be sure to wear gloves when you use it, unless you want the edge to have a nice blood stain on it.

Guys, I only just took notice of these forums today. Thanks for bringing my attention to the cleaveland edge rolling tool. I have ordered one. I bought the Avery toolkit and tried their tool on a test piece: the first and last time I picked it up. I've been using the seaming pliers, but the results have been ... er ... questionable. Have the left-hand elevator and trim tab to do and then all the fibreglass and that's the emp done. Wing kit should arrive later January (tanks being built by Evan). Not many builders here in NZ so expect some questions now that I've found you! Cheers.

sometimes you need to modify that sucker to get the height just right. I've got some alum. pieces taped on to roll small edges.



I can't tell what else I did to it 'cause it would void my warranty.

I had the same problem with my training kit. You can see the results below:



I used the Cleaveland tool, which seemed to help a little, but it really turned out awful. Thankfully it was just the training kit, but I didn't have any extra pop rivets to see if I could fix it. Both edges are flush with the bottom skin so I really don't know where the bend came in.

If anyone has advice on this I'd like it as well!

ccrawford said:

I had the same problem with my training kit. You can see the results below:

I used the Cleaveland tool, which seemed to help a little, but it really turned out awful. Thankfully it was just the training kit, but I didn't have any extra pop rivets to see if I could fix it. Both edges are flush with the bottom skin so I really don't know where the bend came in.

If anyone has advice on this I'd like it as well!

Click to expand...

Your results may have nothing to do with your building skill! It may be the practice kit. My training kit at SynergyAir (which was also provided for by Van's) came with the skin trailing edge pre-bent. However, it was not pre-bent at a 90 degree angle as it should have been--when folded, the sides of the skins did not line up with each other. As a result, there was no way to get the rolled leading edge to line up and the sides to line up at the same time without the puckering yours shows. Mine came out slightly better than your picture shows, but it exhibited the same issues. My suggestion is to not worry about your training project. The real kit is actually manufactured to a much higher standard--it will make you look like a better builder than you (and the rest of us) really are! Good luck.

I agree that the Cleaveland edging tool is superior to the others I have used, although the others do work well if used correctly.
On using the Cleaveland, practice on a scrap first. I have found that if you start with a light bend first and then gradually tighten down the clamps, it is much easier to get good results, especially on thicker materials. I usually do three settings, each one a liitle tighter, until I get what I want. This allows you to use a lot less force in pulling the pliers and lessens the chance of rolling off of the edge of the piece.

I finally went down to the basement, grabbed some aluminum sheet and practiced with my new Cleveland edge bender. The problem I was having was the rollers were stiff and with even very light pressure it wouldn't pull down the sheet. When it did it would either ride up over the shoulder and make a mess or slip off the sheet and make a different kind of mess. I very slightly loosened the nuts and put a few drops of air tool oil on the rollers where they ride on the bolt and it works much better. I did get better results making three passes a little at a time. By the time my airplane is done it will be broken in fine. I have had similar problems with other new tools too. I guess I'll just have to build another when this one is done. Please somebody shoot me now!

Jim Wright RV-9A Right wing Arkansas 90919

Toss it

Take that Avery edge tool and toss it as far as you ##@$ can. The Cleaveland tool gives much more consistant results. Also no matter what tool you use don't pull it down the edge more than twice. Once is ideal. The reason? As you can see the edge of the practice kit it will stretch the edge or the aluminum just enough to cause the problem your trying to prevent. Wrinkles! You don't need a huge bend here, just one you can barley see.

I haven't used the Cleaveland tools but I'd agree it can't be any worse than the Avery Tool. However, used correctly, the Avery Tool is still handy as I've done several leading edges that lay nice and flat, just like in the movies.

I would guess -- and it would just be a guess -- that the biggest mistake withe the Avery Tool is the desire to overbend.