aileron pushrods......When??

I am just about ready to mount my wings for the last time, and am wondering if I need to have my aileron pushrods from the bellcrank to the control column installed in the wing prior to sliding the wings in. My plan has been to wait until I have the wings mounted, make up my pushrods, and then slide them in from the tips via the lightening holes. I figure that I can get ahold of them at the aileron access hole to get them past the bellcrank and into the fuse.

Any sage advice out there guys?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

That will work, and you'll get the length dimensions correct. There is plenty of room. My wings are back off, & I slid wrapping paper tubes over the rods to keep them from rubbing.

In a reply to another thread, I just mentioned that I had to pull the wings when I thought I had them installed for the last time, because I couldn't reach into the gap between the root rib & fusalage to install the gap fairing nutplates on the root rib. Some real skinny hands might do it, but not mine.

L.Adamson RV6A

painless said:

...............make up my pushrods, and then slide them in from the tips via the lightening holes. I figure that I can get ahold of them at the aileron access hole to get them past the bellcrank and into the fuse....................

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Jeff,

Sounds like a good plan; feeding the aileron pushrods through the wings via the tips worked for me and I suspect, countless other builders........go for it.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 66 hours

Thanks guys. Now, please tell me that somewhere down the line I will actually get these wings mounted!!!!

Giving new meaning to the term "slow-build"!

Regards,

I put foam pipe insulation (Home Depot-Lowes) on my pushrods (Don't seal it!). The have been in the wings since I installed the aileron hinges-no sctatches.

Derrell

I have spent the last 2 days mounting my rv6 wings on a very slow quickbuild
and had a hell of a time until afriend said get a couple of the an3 bolts in along the top of the spar bulkhead.that certainly helped(not mentioned in the build manual) as the first time we had the dummy bolts in the splice plates we noticed the line of an3 holes werent lined up at all. After giving up on the first day,l then looked at the lower,aft splice plate which was installed between the seat ribs at the factory and couldnt be taken out,that the etching pencil writing on the plate was on the forward face,,the side that cant be seen,which is contrary to the build manual,so it seems someone cocked up and for a change it wasnt me!.The temporary fit of the an3 bolts eventually won the day.Now, even tho this is a quickbuild,l will certainly need to do some reaming as there is no way the close tolerance bolts will fit the splice plate holes. Thats the next challenge

check with Van's

Before reaming the spar attach holes, you may want to check with Van's. Having to ream these holes on a QB sounds a bit strange.

I did the reaming the other day,having to have the exact size made up and worked well.I have come across a number of QBs that required it,as trying to wack in the bolts with a sledgehammer to then discover they havent been done properly wouldnt be much fun

How long should I cut the tube for the bellcrank to aileron on a 9A? The plans show the overall length, but not length for the tube. I guess I could work it out myself, but sometimes it's easier asking someone who's been there before. Thanks.

RV-6 only

For the original poster...

For the -6 and -6A, just assemble the two wings with the steel joining plates, supporting them on sawhorses - no fuselage involved...

In this position, the stick assemblies can be bolted on to the "inner" spar, and all of the trimming and adjusting done to the entire aileron control system. Everything is much easier to get at in this state.

Note .. will work only for -4 and -6 models with wing spars that meet at the fuselage center line... later models with "bolt on wings" can't use this trick...

gil in Tucson

It is easy

jlfernan said:

How long should I cut the tube for the bellcrank to aileron on a 9A? The plans show the overall length, but not length for the tube. I guess I could work it out myself, but sometimes it's easier asking someone who's been there before. Thanks.

Click to expand...

I placed the rod-end in the end caps at half position. Measured the distance from the center of the rod-end to the cap seat position and subtracted that from the total length to get the length of the tube.

Kent

kentb said:

I placed the rod-end in the end caps at half position. Measured the distance from the center of the rod-end to the cap seat position and subtracted that from the total length to get the length of the tube.

Kent

Click to expand...

From what I understand, you generally want your rod-end bearings to be screwed at least halfway into cones at all times. Thus, what I've done is screw them in halfway and measured, and then added about 1/16-1/8 to the overall tube length just to make sure I end up with tubes that are long enough. That way, if I have to lengthen it from what Van's measurement says, I will still have a full half of the rod end screwed into the cone. I guess my general thinking is that it is probably better to have the tubes slightly too long rather than slightly too short. I have yet to attach my wings, however, so take this all with a big grain of salt. Good luck.