Still working the punch list on the new forum software, and thanks again for your continued patience. This week's goal is getting the ads mostly squared away (these amazing companies make up one of the two wheels that allow the VAF bicycle to roll). I know that was metaphor diarrhea - I'm sleep deprived. Snowed last night here in DFW (we're not really geared for it). Hope you had a nice weekend.
Reminder that the factory is closed for the first half of today due to weather.
v/r,dr
Tip:
"New Posts" are unread posts.
"What's New" is what is recently posted including read and unread posts.
"Latest activity" shows not only recent content but also actions by users, like reactions or status changes.
Posts/Replies that caught my eye recently:
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Daily RV Pic ...barneylocke
RV8 N409PM over Point Reyes, California
Built by Gary Kelson, Flown by Barney Locke, Photo by Aaron Locke
Panel Porn ...Sanch627
Here’s the panel in my 4, nothing placard let, and beginning to embark on a wiring , and reinstall the rudder pedals.
Chris RV4 N1212R
Emp Fairing PIREP ...Scott Hersha
I’ve used the Fairings etc lower empennage fairing on 3 of the 4 RV’s I’ve built It’s a very reasonably priced part and fits well on RV4, 6, and 8, and has a smal radius. On all of mine I just glued it right to the airframe using a flexible structural epoxy (G-Flex). What if I need to remove the HS? - you ask….. Good question. In 24 years of building/owning/flying my 6 RV’s I’ve never had to do that, but it can be done easily with a thin cutoff wheel in my dremel. Reassembly only requires filling the thin cut line, sanding smooth, and repainting that small area with my airbrush gun.
My upper tail fairing is stock RV fairing that came with my RV6 kit. It required a lot of work to make it fit like it does. There are only 3 screws on each side. That aft end is a sort of clevis type arrangement that makes it easy to remove the fairing.
RV-10 Baggage Shelf ...andrewtac
Plan is light weight stuff like hats, jackets, maybe cover or other items that I always want with but don't always need. I made it so I can disassemble it and take it out to access stuff in the tail. It ties in with two pieces on the side that stay in, and then the bottom of the bulkhead will screw to part of it. Also, haven't figures out access at this point. Planning on just removing the top bulkhead panel to access it. I'd like to do cam locks or something easier than screws but need to investigate.
Fuel Line Knowledge ...TS Flightlines
303 hose (H8794) is a rubber lined hose. Rubber is an insulator, and keeps whatver possible static discharge away from the braid. 303 has a nylon braid, under a steel braid, under a cotton cover, so its naturally insulated. Teflon, in its natural form is great for flowing fluids, but doesnt insulate against static. Early teflon hoses used in aircraft would leak, due to the static electricity pinpricking the liner, and conducting to the stainless braid. Looked like the sprinkler hoses we had as kids---well some of us anyway. So engineers added carbon to the resin mix when making the teflon liners, so the static would have a path to the hose ends instead of to the stainless braid. All aviation spec teflon hose that moves fluid are carbon lined, or conductive. YES, the flow volumes we have may or may not produce enough static electricity to create an issue,, but I dont want to find out at 10,000 feet.
Cars and industrial equipment are on the ground, so 'grounded', and they can typically use a non conductive liner. As Jim said, you can buy the mandrels and make your own 303 assemblies. You can even make your own 701 style assemblies without mandrels. You can even make your own teflon assemblies with field installed hose ends. Just make sure you use a conductive black liner hose. Most industrial shops dont stock conductive teflon, but the larger ones do. Hope that helps.
And this issue's Off Topic:
Reminder that the factory is closed for the first half of today due to weather.
v/r,dr
Tip:
"New Posts" are unread posts.
"What's New" is what is recently posted including read and unread posts.
"Latest activity" shows not only recent content but also actions by users, like reactions or status changes.
Posts/Replies that caught my eye recently:
-----------------------------------------
Daily RV Pic ...barneylocke
RV8 N409PM over Point Reyes, California
Built by Gary Kelson, Flown by Barney Locke, Photo by Aaron Locke
Daily RV Pic
RV-8 enjoying the morning around my house. I’m at the desk looking out and he or she has made a few passes. A nice morning here.
vansairforce.net
Panel Porn ...Sanch627
Here’s the panel in my 4, nothing placard let, and beginning to embark on a wiring , and reinstall the rudder pedals.
Chris RV4 N1212R
Show us your panel!
I wanted a clean, uncluttered panel and also to retain the canopy hinge release handle so Com 2 (GTR-20) and transponder (GTX-45R) went under the panel. Electrical protection is all fuses except for the alternator field breaker; I mounted two fuse blocks on the right panel support rib. I'm...
vansairforce.net
Emp Fairing PIREP ...Scott Hersha
I’ve used the Fairings etc lower empennage fairing on 3 of the 4 RV’s I’ve built It’s a very reasonably priced part and fits well on RV4, 6, and 8, and has a smal radius. On all of mine I just glued it right to the airframe using a flexible structural epoxy (G-Flex). What if I need to remove the HS? - you ask….. Good question. In 24 years of building/owning/flying my 6 RV’s I’ve never had to do that, but it can be done easily with a thin cutoff wheel in my dremel. Reassembly only requires filling the thin cut line, sanding smooth, and repainting that small area with my airbrush gun.
My upper tail fairing is stock RV fairing that came with my RV6 kit. It required a lot of work to make it fit like it does. There are only 3 screws on each side. That aft end is a sort of clevis type arrangement that makes it easy to remove the fairing.
Empennage Fairing
The Vans fairing isn't perfect, but most of it is usable by cutting the flanges that fit on top of the HS. I will adjust them to fit then reattach them. That leaves the bottom fairing. Sorry Vans. I can do better than a strip of aluminum angle. Sweetie is a Potter. I've worked a lot of clay...
vansairforce.net
RV-10 Baggage Shelf ...andrewtac
Plan is light weight stuff like hats, jackets, maybe cover or other items that I always want with but don't always need. I made it so I can disassemble it and take it out to access stuff in the tail. It ties in with two pieces on the side that stay in, and then the bottom of the bulkhead will screw to part of it. Also, haven't figures out access at this point. Planning on just removing the top bulkhead panel to access it. I'd like to do cam locks or something easier than screws but need to investigate.
RV-10 Extended Baggage Shelf
I usually travel with my aircraft cover, which unfortunately takes up quite a bit of valuable space in the RV-10's baggage area. There is quite a bit of unused, open area aft of the baggage area bulkhead cover that I've always thought would be perfect for an extended baggage shelf. My thought is...
vansairforce.net
Fuel Line Knowledge ...TS Flightlines
303 hose (H8794) is a rubber lined hose. Rubber is an insulator, and keeps whatver possible static discharge away from the braid. 303 has a nylon braid, under a steel braid, under a cotton cover, so its naturally insulated. Teflon, in its natural form is great for flowing fluids, but doesnt insulate against static. Early teflon hoses used in aircraft would leak, due to the static electricity pinpricking the liner, and conducting to the stainless braid. Looked like the sprinkler hoses we had as kids---well some of us anyway. So engineers added carbon to the resin mix when making the teflon liners, so the static would have a path to the hose ends instead of to the stainless braid. All aviation spec teflon hose that moves fluid are carbon lined, or conductive. YES, the flow volumes we have may or may not produce enough static electricity to create an issue,, but I dont want to find out at 10,000 feet.
Cars and industrial equipment are on the ground, so 'grounded', and they can typically use a non conductive liner. As Jim said, you can buy the mandrels and make your own 303 assemblies. You can even make your own 701 style assemblies without mandrels. You can even make your own teflon assemblies with field installed hose ends. Just make sure you use a conductive black liner hose. Most industrial shops dont stock conductive teflon, but the larger ones do. Hope that helps.
Locally made fuel lines a bad idea?
I'm going to add a new flowscan transducer to my Dynon D180. So this is a good time to changes out all of my fuel lines as they are 12 yrs old or so on my Carb O320. As Im in Red Deer AB Canada and having to contend with the Cdn Peso, International shipping and outrageous brokerage fees by...
vansairforce.net
And this issue's Off Topic:
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