Your preferred edge breaking method?

[jpurban]

Just wondering how most of you finish your sheet metal edges?

I'm trying to decide on which tools are worthwhile. There are so many ways to "skin the cat" with regard to breaking sheet metal edges, right?

Hand files
Pneumatic die grinders with 3M wheels
Bench belt sander with Emery Cloth
Bench grinder with 3M wheel
Others?

 

[scsmith]

edge-breaking tool

nifty notched cutter that shaves off both edges. Then finish with sand paper.
For complicated shapes, I use a hand file.

These methods are slow. I would be open to learning how to use a power tool with low probability of sc**ing up, but still fast. Next time, I'll try the scotchbright wheels

 

[mike newall]

For thin sheet, I use an edge deburring tool, then run over the edges with an abrasive coated sponge like this.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...talogId=10053&productId=100321154&R=100321154

Work away from the edge and don't run up and down the edges or corners.

It works really well on the fluted bits on ribs, bulkheads etc.

Then prior to priming, the edges get a very quick touch with Scotchbrite as I am doing the surfaces.

Thick stuff - Vixen file, then Scotchbrite wheel.

 

[SkywayCaptain]

A 3M wheel on a bench grinder with the guards removed and a couple vixen files make deburring go MUCH smoother. I mounted my grinder on a stand instead of the bench so that it is easier to access.

 

[JurgenRoeland]

This is my method, bit long and time consuming but it makes your edges feel like 'ice skating tracks'

1. Use vixen file to get rid of the milling marks. You can use the grinder but the vixen does a more equal job
2. Use de edge deburr tool (V-shape) to go over the length of the edge, use light pressure. Then rotate the V-shape 30 degrees over one side of the edge, then the other and then finally once more straight.
3. I use then the die grinder with 1" by 1" 3M deburr wheels (item 3700 at avery tools) with a little edge grinded in the wheel. One or two very light pressure runs is usually more then sufficient. The edge makes that it grinds both sides simultaneously.
4. Finally I use 400-600 grit sandpaper to go over and smooth the last bit. Especially for those inside corners and holes that you can't reach with the die grinder.

One final word of advice. Be very carefull with that hand grinder to move in equal speed and pressure. It takes away material from skin read fast and you may end up with bumps if you can't make it work on equal pressure.

 

[Dave Cole]

Method varies with part size

For parts I can hold in my hands, like ribs and bulkheads, I use a Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder. For large sheets, like wing and fuselage skins, I use a handheld V shaped deburring tool to put a slight bevel on the edges, then finish them off with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block.

 

[flion]

I agree with Dave. It also depends on material thickness and accessibility. For instance, lightening holes are impossible to do on a scotchbrite wheel. I've used a dremel for those, but larger holes are accessible to an EZBurr or V-style deburring tool.

 

[Vlad]

I hand filed and sanded everything and enjoyed it. Yes it is slow but looking at the big picture of the project the time spent on deburring/edge smoothing is nothing in compare with other tasks you will face.

 

[mike newall]

But.......

Remember what the scrolls say !

The edge needs to be smooth enough not to draw blood.

Also, can you imagine Cessna, Piper or Beech doing all this palaver ?

Keep it simple, move on, pound rivets, fly