Van's Air Force
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with all the holes in a wing rib....
- Thread starter blueflyer
- Start date
I think you can
I think you can use the lightening holes so long as the cabling doesn't interfere with your aileron brackets or pushrods. So you'd have to secure them pretty well. I just drilled the hole in the recommended location as I deburred my ribs. Only took a few seconds per and the corrugated tubing fits pretty snug (it was harder to pull that tubing through then it was to drill those holes).
John
Houston
RV-7 Wings
I think you can use the lightening holes so long as the cabling doesn't interfere with your aileron brackets or pushrods. So you'd have to secure them pretty well. I just drilled the hole in the recommended location as I deburred my ribs. Only took a few seconds per and the corrugated tubing fits pretty snug (it was harder to pull that tubing through then it was to drill those holes).
John
Houston
RV-7 Wings
rmartingt
Well Known Member
Smilin' Jack
Well Known Member
Conduit runs
I likewise thought there was not a need to run more holes in the wing so I made small tabs bent 90 degrees and used two pop rivets per tab on every other rib and on the walk ribs only a tab on the outside two wing walk ribs. I ran them opposite so when I ran the conduit I could put slight tension on the conduit to keep it from sagging. Pictures are in the first building log pictures of the conduit can be seen in pictures 626 to 675.
I started with the idea to use the rigid blue but changed to the flexible black . Both at the Aviation Dept of Home Depot. The flex is strong enough to run a snake through if you have to pull a wire. I added 2 extra wires in the conduit for future extras like lighting off pyro techs
Jack Hunt
"Smilin' Jack"
I likewise thought there was not a need to run more holes in the wing so I made small tabs bent 90 degrees and used two pop rivets per tab on every other rib and on the walk ribs only a tab on the outside two wing walk ribs. I ran them opposite so when I ran the conduit I could put slight tension on the conduit to keep it from sagging. Pictures are in the first building log pictures of the conduit can be seen in pictures 626 to 675.
I started with the idea to use the rigid blue but changed to the flexible black . Both at the Aviation Dept of Home Depot. The flex is strong enough to run a snake through if you have to pull a wire. I added 2 extra wires in the conduit for future extras like lighting off pyro techs
Jack Hunt
"Smilin' Jack"
Last edited:
DaleB
Well Known Member
Today I fabricated some mounting tabs that I secured to the ribs with a single 1/8" pulled rivet. Only one #30 hole near the edge of the lightening hole in each rib (I've only done the outboard half so far).
The tabs are bent 90 degrees and used to zip-tie a polycarbonate shield tube for a T8 fluorescent lamp. You can get these in 4' lengths - perfect for the outboard end of the wing, leaving a gap at the aileron bellcrank inspection plate -- and 8', which can be cut for the inboard side. Plenty of room for wire and cable. I secured the tubing to the tabs with a dab of RTV and a zip tie.
I even put little 45 degree kinks in each end of the tab; one end rests against the stiffening ridge around the lightening hole, and the other is just a little extra insurance that the zip ties won't slip off (even though I also put a dab of RTV on them).
Pics here, if you want to see them. I think it's a pretty nice solution. Minimal drilling, only a couple ounces of weight, lots of room for wires and cables, and I can remove the bellcrank inspection plate to run wires if needed. I'll just secure the wires to keep them clear of the bellcrank and pushrods.
The tabs are bent 90 degrees and used to zip-tie a polycarbonate shield tube for a T8 fluorescent lamp. You can get these in 4' lengths - perfect for the outboard end of the wing, leaving a gap at the aileron bellcrank inspection plate -- and 8', which can be cut for the inboard side. Plenty of room for wire and cable. I secured the tubing to the tabs with a dab of RTV and a zip tie.
I even put little 45 degree kinks in each end of the tab; one end rests against the stiffening ridge around the lightening hole, and the other is just a little extra insurance that the zip ties won't slip off (even though I also put a dab of RTV on them).
Pics here, if you want to see them. I think it's a pretty nice solution. Minimal drilling, only a couple ounces of weight, lots of room for wires and cables, and I can remove the bellcrank inspection plate to run wires if needed. I'll just secure the wires to keep them clear of the bellcrank and pushrods.
