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Wiring up AeroLEDS

rockwoodrv9

Well Known Member
Patron
I am over my head with the wiring on this plane! I bought the AeroLEDS at AV and picked them up direct at the factory in Boise. What a great group of people there. It is always a treat to see Susan! Dean is VERY patient when I had to go back in to ask for help.

I still couldn't get the connectors figured out so I made a mock-up of the wires from the power supply through the switches and to the lights. To my surprise, it worked on the first try!

I had the idea I could just make cables with d-sub connectors to go from the panel area to each light. What this showed me was that is not correct - at least I couldnt figure out how to do it. Now I can start stringing wire and know that it will work.
I am still unsure on how to join all the wires when I feed them from the panel. I want as few of connections as possible. My plan is to run wires from the lights to under the seats where I will have a splicing or terminal located to take the power wires from the panel.

Does that sound correct?
Did you use a terminal block, d-sum, molex, or splices? If anyone has a photo, that would be great.
wire3_zpsqz7olpob.jpg
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Thanks
 
Unless you plan to take the connections apart frequently, I recommend permanent splices. Leave a service loop so that if the splices ever have to be cut, there will be enough wire to make a new splice. The vast majority of electrical problems are caused by bad connections. Fewer connections mean fewer problems in the future.
 
I like the first answer you got. Good advice. You might also consider soldering your connections and covering with heat shrink. Splices with a crimp tool are quite good when done properly, but take some practice.
It just depends on which you are better at I suppose. The extra wire, or "service loop" is good practice for ALL your wiring. If you ever have to go back and revisit the wiring, you will be glad there is extra there. And yes, Aero LEDS have excellent engineering behind them.
 
I just built this mock up quickly with scrap wire so I could get the concept in my head. I have drawn and read blueprints my entire life, but the electrical drawings confuse the **** out of me. If anything, I over shrink wrap with several layers.

I still have some work to figure out the rest of this wiring - but I will keep plugging away. The strobe lights and having to ground the shielded wire is a whole new ball game. I ordered some solder sleeves from Stein and I hope that works. The drawings show how to wire one strobe up - and saus do the other the same. I may have to go see Dean again!!

I like the first answer you got. Good advice. You might also consider soldering your connections and covering with heat shrink. Splices with a crimp tool are quite good when done properly, but take some practice.
It just depends on which you are better at I suppose. The extra wire, or "service loop" is good practice for ALL your wiring. If you ever have to go back and revisit the wiring, you will be glad there is extra there. And yes, Aero LEDS have excellent engineering behind them.
 
Any of the connectors will work with one caveat. You need to ensure that the current rating for the device doesn't exceed the current limit for the pin. The good news is that LEDs don't draw significant current, although I don't know the current for the landing lights. I have their NAV lights.

Wiring the AeroLEDs are pretty straight forward. Just follow the schematic that Dean provided and you'll be fine. Especially with connecting grounds and shields.
 
I want to add another kudo for AeroLEDs. They are great to deal with,make a fine product, support it well, and support aviation in the best way possible. They have been quite generous with discounts to youth build programs!

Bob
 
I am still unsure on how to join all the wires when I feed them from the panel. I want as few of connections as possible. My plan is to run wires from the lights to under the seats where I will have a splicing or terminal located to take the power wires from the panel.

Does that sound correct?

Did you use a terminal block, d-sum, molex, or splices? If anyone has a photo, that would be great.

On the 10, I have used all the above mentioned methods of connecting wiring.

I particularly like knife splice connections, shrink tube over them and they are as bullet proof as you can get.

knife_splice_2.jpg


I have used d-sub connectors both with and without the shells just fine, here is a shot of d-sub pins only, just shrink tube over them. Compact, light weight, simple.

P7220007.jpg


My least favorite is the Molex---------but that is what came on the strobes and tip lights, so I used them.

As to under the seat terminal strips...............................

P2100015.JPG
 
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Thanks guys. I will draw up what I plan and post it to get comments. The lights are all 20g and the strobes are 20g shielded wire that came from aeroleds. I really like making up the d sub connectors and Stein has some nice aluminum pre cut plates that allow you to mount them so the connection is secured.


Thanks.
 
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Mounting the Landing Lights on Duckworth brackets

I finally got my wiring figured out and went to mount the lights. When I mounted the old duckworth bracket and light, I did them as shown on the drawings. Looking at them now, they look pretty far back. Has anyone modified the bracket or moved it forward so the light is closer to the edge of the wing?

How close can I put the aeroled light to the plastic edge? I havent had mine plugged in long enough to see how hot they get. I will get some pictures when I go to the hangar today.
 
I finally got my wiring figured out and went to mount the lights. When I mounted the old duckworth bracket and light, I did them as shown on the drawings. Looking at them now, they look pretty far back. Has anyone modified the bracket or moved it forward so the light is closer to the edge of the wing?

How close can I put the aeroled light to the plastic edge? I havent had mine plugged in long enough to see how hot they get. I will get some pictures when I go to the hangar today.

The lens on the front of our lights is polycarbonate, so you can get right up against the leading edge lens without harming it (other than maybe scratching it).
 
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