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wiring the stick

uk_figs

uk_figs

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I have checked the threads and looked at Dan C website for methods to connect the stick wiring to the rest of the systems, do most people use the terminal block method??

I was thinking of using a DB25 connector as the pins crimp nice and securely onto the small awg wires that come from the stick.
The stick has a Ray Allen G307 with top hat, PTT, Flip Flop and A/P CWS.

Pictures would be appreciated as there is not much space down there.
 
Stick Wiring

I'm in the process of wiring 2 Infinity sticks into my -8A. I purchased the Infinity Relay Deck to handle trim and flaps. Plan to use a D-sub connector for the rest of the wiring.

I have the forward stick cable exiting the stick in a forward direction, just above the pivot point, then run the cable through a main spar web hole. Relay deck is monted vertically against the right fus skin beneath the floor on right side.

I am considering a terminal block vice D-sub connector. And after further review, will not utilize a couple of the stick switches (starter, boost pump). I use a terminal block next to the relay deck to organize the 6 trim indicator wires.

The trim wiring task seemed daunting at first, but is a classic example of how the one wire at a time approach really works.
 
uk_figs said:
........connect the stick wiring to the rest of the systems, do most people use the terminal block method??.Pictures would be appreciated as there is not much space down there.
Click to expand...
I've used the terminal block method and doing so makes it easier for me to separate, identify and organize the many wires in the Infinity Joystick cable. The second photo shows a similar work in progress in the -8 project.



 
D-Subs

I went with a D-sub connector, simply because I had some on hand, and that allows me to quickly remove the stick without having to sort out the many wires when I want to re-attach it to a terminal block. Nothing wrong with the terminal block method though - I have just never used them, so I guess I am biased the other way.

Paul
 
I put relay blocks in my -6 when I upgraded to Inifinity grips. There's plenty room in the -6 under the seat for the wiring. Simple & easy.

901jh_28aug05_006.jpg


901jh_28aug05_073.jpg
 
I would highly recommend using a terminal block. The reason for this is that sometime in the future one of those wires will break coming from the joystick and it make it a lot easier to replace.
 
Good timing on this one.

I just did the stick wiring this week, used a terminal block.

One of the benefits not yet listed, is up grading.

At this time, I have an unused pushbutton on the grip, and I still have to decide how to create the rudder trim mechanics. But I did wire up the stick to the term block for these functions, will be a piece of cake to add the balance of the wiring later.
 
Terminal blocks

I used a terminal block for the stick wiring and another for lighting and flaps. I would highly recommend using these as it simplifies wire runs.

Make it easier on yourself and order the T blocks from Stein and get the pieces that allow them to become fast on connectors. Much easier.

FWIW, I did not do any wiring on the co pilot stick. Super easy to remove this way. I've had 62 people ride in my plane and there has not been one instance of need to have trim or PTT on this side. I do have a PTT switch for the Co pilot side on the panel. Any need to trim can be accomplished through the pilot side stick.
 
Food for thought.

Darwin, good logic for not putting in co-pilot stick switches.

In my case, I am putting in PTT, and A/P engage controls only.

My wife is a student pilot, will finish her license in the 10. I expect most of our flying to be together, and it will be nice to have the option for the co-pilot to take over on long trips.

Thank goodness for Expiremental aviation, so we can customize as we see fit.

Excellent idea for using the "fast on" connectors, ditto the terminal strips for wing attachment.
 
Thanks for the inputs, I have the terminal block strips from spuce and also have the faston tabs that go with them so I will go this route. I have put a DB9 connector on the aileron trim servo as the pigtail was not long enough to reach the next compartment where I would install the RB strips.
I have also been considering the copilot stick and only have the PTT switch (G01 grip), I was thinking about a simple two pin molex mini connector with the extra wire pushed up in the stick which would allow the stick to be removed if necessary (i.e when it gets in the way of the wife knitting :D )

This seemed fairly straighforward as it is only two wires.
 
Speaking of Molex connectors, that's what I used. There are at least two sizes.

The .062 size is nice and compact, and can handle 5 Amps.

Here's a fuzzy photo of the stick half of my installation. I just happened to have a 12 and a 4 position. As I wasn't going to use 4 of the pins anyway, I wired them as extras into the 4 place connector.

 
Why not use a fast on strip rather than a terminal block?

Rather than convert heavy terminal blocks to allow for fast ons (and risk screws coming undone) why not just buy a fast on strip. They are very lite in weight. I made up a bracket to terminate the wires from the stick, trim, autopilot, and ptt complete with three relays and a trim speed control, and have that bolted in.

You can see it here, together with the WECO part number.

http://gikonelectrics.blogspot.com/2007/09/i-installed-first-two-electrical.html
Go to the 9/10/07 entry and double click the second picture down. It is not fully populated with fast ons yet but it will be before we are finished.
 
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