Wingtip Alignment Problem

[lr172]

For those that haven't followed my posts, I purchased a partially completed RV-6A and am progressively fixing a variety of errors.

Today I shortened the small aileron pushrod to get the bellcrank in the correct neutral position. I then used the tooling holes to get the aileron neutral. I then put the wing tips back on (rigged by previous owner) and sure enough, he used the incorrect neutral position (carried his mistake from the bellcrank I think) to set the wing tips. The trailing edge tip is ~1/4" low and needs to be fixed.

I spoke to the guy at Avery to get a dimple die for this and he had a good idea. He suggested slicing the trailing edge and re-positioning to alignment and glassing it in this shape (need to remove the rib first).

The other option would be to drill out all of the nut plates and bond an .032 alum strip to the back side of the edge. I could then re-drill each of the holes and add new nut plates. This option seems a bit easier (not much) and would avoid having the trailing edge of the wing tip drift off the neutral line. However, I am afraid the epoxy bond may not be strong enough to support drilling holes from the opposite side.

I thought others may have gone through this exercise and have ideas for fixing it.

Thanks for your assistance.

Larry

 

[jay.pearlman]

I am building an RV6A. There are many discussions where the tips have not aligned with the ailerons. The general solution is to cut the rear, align and regales the rear - with a cloth wrapped around. The tip rib inside the wing tip may present problems and the rivets may need to be removed. You can glass over any holes.
The position of the small wingtip rib is important for shaping and you should look at that also. I have the RV7 wing tips and decided to build a small fiberglass rib to stiffen the skins near the span wise center of the tip. I am not sure it is necessary. There have been many discussions of nut plates verses hinges to hold the wing time on. After way to much time agonizing, I used hinges and am happy with the decision. If you do not have many nut plates, then moving them makes sense.

 

[lr172]

Thanks for the input. I have been thinking about this more since posting. It looks like each nut plate will only move about 1/16". I don't know how I will drill and counter sink hole for the rivets holding the nut plates. Seems the only option is to rivet the nut plates to the alum strip backing. But then I have to rivet that to the fiberglass to get the pilot holes then drill out all the rivets to get the strip off to rivet the nut plates and then replace the strip.

Sounds like slicing the trailing edge and re-glassing is the easier approach. Any concerns with the fac that the trailing edge will be off at the edge of the wing tip? I am guessing that this is not very significant.

Larrry