hi guys im considering build rv-4 after my rv-3 is done ,i doo want build my spars i dont see any reason spend several hundered dolars just for assembly my question is if anyone here in these days bought spars for rv-4 ,how far are they done are the bars tapered are the reinforce bars between spar flanges drill are the lightening holes cut thank you
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wing spars
- Thread starter jany77
- Start date
joeboisselle
Well Known Member
I built mine, the lightning holes were already drilled, the bars were tapered and pre drilled. All you need to do is de-bur, prime (optional) and rivit it together.
az_gila
Well Known Member
Bakersfield
Since the spars need 3/16 rivets, they are a bit difficult to set. The Avery dimple machine will do it, but everything needs to be held firmly and a big hammer used.
Since you are in California, I suggest contacting John Harmon in Bakersfield.
He did my spars and with his "Big Bertha" floor mounted C-frame riveter, it only took about 30 minutes. This was definitely one case of the right tool making the job easy...
It certainly was worth the drive from Los Angeles, even if it did cost me a new motor for my son's old Mazda pick-up...
Try contacting the "Bakersfield Bunch" EAA Chapter for details...
Gil A
Since the spars need 3/16 rivets, they are a bit difficult to set. The Avery dimple machine will do it, but everything needs to be held firmly and a big hammer used.
Since you are in California, I suggest contacting John Harmon in Bakersfield.
He did my spars and with his "Big Bertha" floor mounted C-frame riveter, it only took about 30 minutes. This was definitely one case of the right tool making the job easy...
It certainly was worth the drive from Los Angeles, even if it did cost me a new motor for my son's old Mazda pick-up...
Try contacting the "Bakersfield Bunch" EAA Chapter for details...
Gil A
Brian Vickers
Well Known Member
Like Joe B., I rolled my own
I rented the pneumatic rivet squeezer from Vans for one week to set the big rivets. I think they only charge shipping. Everything comes pretty much ready to assemble. The usual prep is needed; smooth edges, radius corners, Scotch wheel, and prime. I would definitely assemble the spars again. It is basic assembly compared to the skills you will need for some of the other tasks (canopy!!). I think it took me about one weekend and eight cups of coffee. Good equity gain.
Brian Vickers, RV4 finishing
Mounting wings next weekend!!!
I rented the pneumatic rivet squeezer from Vans for one week to set the big rivets. I think they only charge shipping. Everything comes pretty much ready to assemble. The usual prep is needed; smooth edges, radius corners, Scotch wheel, and prime. I would definitely assemble the spars again. It is basic assembly compared to the skills you will need for some of the other tasks (canopy!!). I think it took me about one weekend and eight cups of coffee. Good equity gain.
Brian Vickers, RV4 finishing
Mounting wings next weekend!!!
joeboisselle
Well Known Member
If your referring to the bars in the spars just aft of the fuel tank, yes, these are pre-drilled as well. It's been a couple years, but I think the only major drilling you need do on the wing is the skin to the ribs.
Les Boatright
Member
Hi Jan,
In your 1st post you asked if anyone bought their RV-4 spars already assembled & how far they're done. Since I opted for the pre-assembled Phlogiston spars when I bought my wing kit, I figured I'd toss in my 2 cents.
The spars I recieved were COMPLETE. All riveting was done, all edges smoothed, all bars tapered, all lightening holes cut, & they had even been gold anodized to provide superior corrosion protection. When I ordered them, I was still in the empennage phase of construction & my building confidence wasn't as high as it is now. (if you've already built an RV-3, you'll have no trouble)
I figured the spars are the heart of the wing structure & carry all of the lift loads. Consequently, I wanted to be very certain they were built straight, accurate, and to a high degree of quality. I also knew I couldn't duplicate the anodized finish in my home shop. So, at the time I bought them, the extra cost seemed like a fair trade, and given the quality of workmanship in my pre-built spars, I don't regret it at all.
In hindsight, I'm sure I could've built the spars myself and saved some money, but I'm happy they way I went.
You may want to build them yourself to save a few dollars, or simply for the sake of the building experience. Either way, I think it's a personal choice, but you can't go wrong w/ an RV-4.
Best regards,
In your 1st post you asked if anyone bought their RV-4 spars already assembled & how far they're done. Since I opted for the pre-assembled Phlogiston spars when I bought my wing kit, I figured I'd toss in my 2 cents.
The spars I recieved were COMPLETE. All riveting was done, all edges smoothed, all bars tapered, all lightening holes cut, & they had even been gold anodized to provide superior corrosion protection. When I ordered them, I was still in the empennage phase of construction & my building confidence wasn't as high as it is now. (if you've already built an RV-3, you'll have no trouble)
I figured the spars are the heart of the wing structure & carry all of the lift loads. Consequently, I wanted to be very certain they were built straight, accurate, and to a high degree of quality. I also knew I couldn't duplicate the anodized finish in my home shop. So, at the time I bought them, the extra cost seemed like a fair trade, and given the quality of workmanship in my pre-built spars, I don't regret it at all.
In hindsight, I'm sure I could've built the spars myself and saved some money, but I'm happy they way I went.
You may want to build them yourself to save a few dollars, or simply for the sake of the building experience. Either way, I think it's a personal choice, but you can't go wrong w/ an RV-4.
Best regards,
Build Them Yourself
I built mine this spring. I put a partition in the long shipping crate, lined the box with plastic and installed a drain and alodined all my parts before priming them. I used Avery's C-frame and a 4 lb hammer on the big rivets, but was later horrified to see that my 3x rivet gun at 120 psi did a fine job in the C-frame and would have been much easier than using the hammer. I enjoyed the build.
I built mine this spring. I put a partition in the long shipping crate, lined the box with plastic and installed a drain and alodined all my parts before priming them. I used Avery's C-frame and a 4 lb hammer on the big rivets, but was later horrified to see that my 3x rivet gun at 120 psi did a fine job in the C-frame and would have been much easier than using the hammer. I enjoyed the build.
