jhearnsberger
Active Member
I am sending off my order for the wing kit. Can anyone give me advise on the wing kit options? Landing Lights, Electric Aileron Trim, and Float Fuel Sending Units.
Van's Air Force
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Wing Kit Options
- Thread starter jhearnsberger
- Start date
Wayne Gillispie
Well Known Member
Wing kit options
Deluxe locking fuel caps 2 ea from Van's. I am installing Stein's autopilot 7- wire harness, whelen strobe 3-wire shielded cable, 50 watt hid kit/wire, stall warning wires(incl in wing kit), 14 ga falcon heated pitot wire, whelen position light wire, RG-400 each wing for mb and vor...all inside snap bushings per plans. No conduit needed if you know what you want at this time. Running one extra 18 ga wire in each wing for future use. Have most of the above, waiting on remainder due mid-May. Working on top wing skins right now.
Deluxe locking fuel caps 2 ea from Van's. I am installing Stein's autopilot 7- wire harness, whelen strobe 3-wire shielded cable, 50 watt hid kit/wire, stall warning wires(incl in wing kit), 14 ga falcon heated pitot wire, whelen position light wire, RG-400 each wing for mb and vor...all inside snap bushings per plans. No conduit needed if you know what you want at this time. Running one extra 18 ga wire in each wing for future use. Have most of the above, waiting on remainder due mid-May. Working on top wing skins right now.
Seansull
Active Member
Hey Jake,
I ordered 2 duckworks leading edge light kits without the lights. I am going to wait to see what lights are around when I get closer to finishing. In addition, I ordered the vans wingtip light kit as well. I am going to do taxi/wigwags in the tips and landing lights in the leading edge. I am making my own nav LED's and strobes.
I preinstalled vans flex conduit in the wings for "whatever" wires. I also went with larger gromets on both wings for for pitot and AOA plumbing. The right wing has these also in case I need them for something.
I am installing the Dynon heated AOA/pitot combo unit but have not purchased it yet. I did purchase the Safe Air pitot mast installation kit to install now while wing is under construction.
You will probably want to install your autopilot servo mounting tray while the wing is opened up too. I am going with MGL avionics so I used the Trio mount. I decided to go with the float fuel senders that vans sells. I also installed the vans aileron trim kit as well.
I have not decided 100% on on Archer wingtip antennas yet but my conduit and wire runs will allow for them if I go that route.
I hope this helps, this was my decision process in a nutshell.
I ordered 2 duckworks leading edge light kits without the lights. I am going to wait to see what lights are around when I get closer to finishing. In addition, I ordered the vans wingtip light kit as well. I am going to do taxi/wigwags in the tips and landing lights in the leading edge. I am making my own nav LED's and strobes.
I preinstalled vans flex conduit in the wings for "whatever" wires. I also went with larger gromets on both wings for for pitot and AOA plumbing. The right wing has these also in case I need them for something.
I am installing the Dynon heated AOA/pitot combo unit but have not purchased it yet. I did purchase the Safe Air pitot mast installation kit to install now while wing is under construction.
You will probably want to install your autopilot servo mounting tray while the wing is opened up too. I am going with MGL avionics so I used the Trio mount. I decided to go with the float fuel senders that vans sells. I also installed the vans aileron trim kit as well.
I have not decided 100% on on Archer wingtip antennas yet but my conduit and wire runs will allow for them if I go that route.
I hope this helps, this was my decision process in a nutshell.
flion
Well Known Member
Advice is worth what you pay for it.
So far it seems you are hearing what extras others are adding to their kit. As far as the options on the order form, I'd say that Bob had it right; you can defer ordering anything until you are at that point in construction. However, construction will be easier if you make up your mind beforehand. Each of the options has alternatives, which is why they are options (I only wish Van's Aircraft made some other components optional - anyone want to buy a stall warning system?) I decided I was indifferent about the position of the landing/taxi lights, so I am going with the wingtip lights, but I like my Duckworks lights on the -6A. I also went with the electric trim because it will interface with the autopilot I will be using but I fly the -6A without aileron trim; switching tanks every half hour seems sufficient though others with time in a -10 may have a better perspective here. And I am going with a capacitance sending system, though it is a bit of a gamble because they are not RV specific senders. However, they work with the G900X and are intended to be a generic install, so I proceed with unfounded confidence. Besides, I don't rely on fuel gauges that much anyway.
So, the burden falls back on you. Each person will have their own combination of options and reasons for their choice. Probably the most important factor in your own choices will be how you intend the overall aircraft to look and function - what other equipment you have may drive your choices.
So far it seems you are hearing what extras others are adding to their kit. As far as the options on the order form, I'd say that Bob had it right; you can defer ordering anything until you are at that point in construction. However, construction will be easier if you make up your mind beforehand. Each of the options has alternatives, which is why they are options (I only wish Van's Aircraft made some other components optional - anyone want to buy a stall warning system?) I decided I was indifferent about the position of the landing/taxi lights, so I am going with the wingtip lights, but I like my Duckworks lights on the -6A. I also went with the electric trim because it will interface with the autopilot I will be using but I fly the -6A without aileron trim; switching tanks every half hour seems sufficient though others with time in a -10 may have a better perspective here. And I am going with a capacitance sending system, though it is a bit of a gamble because they are not RV specific senders. However, they work with the G900X and are intended to be a generic install, so I proceed with unfounded confidence. Besides, I don't rely on fuel gauges that much anyway.So, the burden falls back on you. Each person will have their own combination of options and reasons for their choice. Probably the most important factor in your own choices will be how you intend the overall aircraft to look and function - what other equipment you have may drive your choices.
So, lots of opinions but let me summarize... Bottom line is that if you install conduit you can run wire for any electrical widget later. Just put breakpoints in the conduit at each inspection panel and you'll be set. Only real required consideration beyond that would be the mechanical attachment of "stuff".
Either Van's wingtip lights (either stock or the replacement MR-16 HID type) or the Duckworks leading edge style don't have to be planned for before closing things up. Power is a single wire and both styles can be locally grounded. HID type will have a power supply that gets mounted near the actual light. It MIGHT be a little easier to do the leading edge cutout for installing it to the wing but many have done it even after paint.
The strobe and position lights are in the wingtip, so again just make sure you can run the wire out easily.
if you install an antenna in the wingtip(s) you'll have to account for that wire in the conduit. The Archer type nav antenna (works well for me in my -10) and/or a marker beacon antenna are the only practical choices here.
If you install an AFS AOA system there are a pair of pressure ports on the wing. Those are installed just a few inches inboard of the outboard edge of the wing so again, no big deal. They are connected with 1/8" tygon like tubing so just make sure there's room in the conduit.
If you're going with a non-Van's style pitot (the simple tube) you'll want to install the mount before installing the bottom outboard skin. The Gretz mount requires a doubler and securing the mount a rib adjacent to the mount. If a heated pitot you'll have to account for that wire in the conduit.
Installing an AP roll servo is slightly easier before the skin is attached but only slightly. Figure that it might add around 30 minutes to the install time of an hour or two just because of the limited room to get your hands in there if working through the inspection opening. The TruTrak roll servo needs a bundle of 7 wires (2 are #20, 5 are #22) so again, make sure you can run the wire.
Aileron trim (Van's option) is installed on an inboard inspection panel and connected to the pushtube via springs. No difference installing before or after the wing is completed. You'll probably have to remove the pushtube to install the spring attach clips and thats only a single bolt at each end and it slides out. It's wired just like the elevator trim servo - 5 wires.
Finally, the fuel level sensors. Regardless of whether you go with float or capacitive you'll want them before closing up the tanks. The capacitive because you'll need to secure the probe along the ribs and the float because it's easier to adjust the arm with it in place and without the rear baffle installed. Both types have the wire connection at the root so there's no wiring consideration in the conduit.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
Either Van's wingtip lights (either stock or the replacement MR-16 HID type) or the Duckworks leading edge style don't have to be planned for before closing things up. Power is a single wire and both styles can be locally grounded. HID type will have a power supply that gets mounted near the actual light. It MIGHT be a little easier to do the leading edge cutout for installing it to the wing but many have done it even after paint.
The strobe and position lights are in the wingtip, so again just make sure you can run the wire out easily.
if you install an antenna in the wingtip(s) you'll have to account for that wire in the conduit. The Archer type nav antenna (works well for me in my -10) and/or a marker beacon antenna are the only practical choices here.
If you install an AFS AOA system there are a pair of pressure ports on the wing. Those are installed just a few inches inboard of the outboard edge of the wing so again, no big deal. They are connected with 1/8" tygon like tubing so just make sure there's room in the conduit.
If you're going with a non-Van's style pitot (the simple tube) you'll want to install the mount before installing the bottom outboard skin. The Gretz mount requires a doubler and securing the mount a rib adjacent to the mount. If a heated pitot you'll have to account for that wire in the conduit.
Installing an AP roll servo is slightly easier before the skin is attached but only slightly. Figure that it might add around 30 minutes to the install time of an hour or two just because of the limited room to get your hands in there if working through the inspection opening. The TruTrak roll servo needs a bundle of 7 wires (2 are #20, 5 are #22) so again, make sure you can run the wire.
Aileron trim (Van's option) is installed on an inboard inspection panel and connected to the pushtube via springs. No difference installing before or after the wing is completed. You'll probably have to remove the pushtube to install the spring attach clips and thats only a single bolt at each end and it slides out. It's wired just like the elevator trim servo - 5 wires.
Finally, the fuel level sensors. Regardless of whether you go with float or capacitive you'll want them before closing up the tanks. The capacitive because you'll need to secure the probe along the ribs and the float because it's easier to adjust the arm with it in place and without the rear baffle installed. Both types have the wire connection at the root so there's no wiring consideration in the conduit.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
jhearnsberger
Active Member
I appreciate your responses. I am new to all of this and confused about what I need. I am guessing that if I don't buy the Float Fuel Sending Units or Landing Lights that I will have to find them from another company. Aren't those two things kind of a necessity?
The electric aileron trim sounds pretty cool. I think I would enjoy having it. Also, I would like to have auto pilot. Is the TruTrak roll servo what I need? Where do I buy it from? I would also like my plane to be set up for IFR. Is their anything else I need to install in the wing for that purpose?
As far as the lighting goes, I am ok with basic stuff. I do not want to spend money on things that are not necessary. However, I do like electric trim and would like autopilot and having the plane capable for IFR.
The electric aileron trim sounds pretty cool. I think I would enjoy having it. Also, I would like to have auto pilot. Is the TruTrak roll servo what I need? Where do I buy it from? I would also like my plane to be set up for IFR. Is their anything else I need to install in the wing for that purpose?
As far as the lighting goes, I am ok with basic stuff. I do not want to spend money on things that are not necessary. However, I do like electric trim and would like autopilot and having the plane capable for IFR.
I strongly recommend heated pitot for IFR. You can wait on the AP until you start working panel things or (at least with TruTrak) can buy the servo(s) now and just the AP head later. You can get from Stein, directly from TruTrak and probably many other places.
Most find that they use fuel flow as their primary method of managing fuel and the gauges just as a backup (although they are required). The floats will NOT be accurate because of the dihedral and can't tell the difference between about 25 gallons and full at 30. From 25 to empty however they do reasonably well. While capacitance will in theory give you very good accuracy, most just go with the floats from Van's.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
Most find that they use fuel flow as their primary method of managing fuel and the gauges just as a backup (although they are required). The floats will NOT be accurate because of the dihedral and can't tell the difference between about 25 gallons and full at 30. From 25 to empty however they do reasonably well. While capacitance will in theory give you very good accuracy, most just go with the floats from Van's.
Bob
RV-10 N442PM
rleffler
Well Known Member
You can get them from many different companies. Like most things in life, pricing and quality varies. I would recommend getting the fuel senders and the Duckworks 55w HIDs from Vans. You can get other products a little less expensive, but might as well throw them in the wing kit to save a little on shipping. Also get the 3/4 flexible conduit from Vans. Get the 50' roll. What you don't use on the wings, you'll use in the fuselage.
Electrim trim is almost a must have on a RV-10. You get it from Vans. You can get the Trutrak roll servo for the RV-10 from SteinAir, Aerotronics, Stark, aircraftextras.com and many other places. These you can delay the purchase if needed to stretch finances. Unless you're building fulltime or have a quickbuild, it will be awhile bfore you need them. They'll be one of the last items you'll install in the wing. Just be sure to make apprpriate holes in you conduit before putting the bottom skins on. You may also want to consider getting a harness from SteinAir for the servo too.
For IFR, you'll also need a heated pitot. You really only have two choices. Gretz from Angus Aviation or Dynon. SteinAir sells both or you can get directly from both vendors. Gretz has a controller board that automatically controls turning on and off the heat. The Dynon has an AOA function that works with a Dynon EFIS. I went with the Gretz. Like Bob mentioned above, you'll need the pitot mount to cut a hole in the bottom skin, as well as add a double that isn't in the plans. Both of these pitots use the Gretz mount.
IFR means different things to different people. Paul Dye wrote an excellent article in opne of the RVators last year about selecting the appropriate hardware for you mission and how to appropriately mitigate risk with backup equipment. I don't have the exact reference handy, but I can look it up. You can download past issues from Vans.
Last but not least, read Tim Olson's web site (myrv10.com). You'll find plenty of the options that are mentioned here. Also, the "gotachas" pages are priceless. If you don't read them, you're bound to repeat them first hand.
bob
jhearnsberger
Active Member
Does the RV-10 kit come with any lighting? Are the landing lights the only ones that you need to buy in addition to the subkits?
rleffler
Well Known Member
The RV-10 comes with no lighting. You need to determine your requirements, then purchase the appropriate solution. You can purchse several vendor's products directly from Vans.
I went with 55w HIDs from Duckworks. While you can install them on a finished wing, I found it was easier with the leading edge assembly on the workbench prior to mounting the leading edge assembly to the spar.
The position lights and strobes can be done much later. I'm on my finish kit now and still haven't purchased these yet. The LED market has been going through some changes this past year and will continue to change. At the moment, I'm leaning towards the AeroLEDs NS90 package. If you order through Vans its about $100 less expensive. LED solutions are more expensive, but you won't have to replace bulbs or deal with a noisy strobe power supply. This is another one of the many items you can hold off on and see how the market matures over the next year.
Based on your questions I highly recommend attending Airventure if you can this year. The vendor booths will help you determine direction on many of the options on your kit. Also, the RV-10 HQ at Camp Scholler will yield a wealth of information. The planned dinners usually have 30+ RV-10 builders in attendance. Usually there are 15-2o RV-10 builders that camp together. More about this will be posted on the Matronics RV-10 list in the June time frame.
