Wing install question RV-8

[cacflyer]

Tonight attempted to install the wings in my RV8 QB, Van's suggest a slight bevel on the root end of the wing spar. Any guidance on just how much to bevel. I performed a slight bevel to the trailing edge of the root wing spar, but inserting the root wing spar into the spar box is a no go so far. I'm reluctant to continue with the bevel until I hear from some of y'all on just how much of a bevel you performed, and was it performed on the forward AND aft sides of the root wing spar?

If anyone took a pic of this operation, that would be fantastic!

Thank you

 

[Blain]

Wasn't needed

QB fuse and wings. Parts fit without bevel. Even did it alone a couple of times.

 

[Robert Anglin]

No pictures but

I don't have any pictures of this, but yes a fine file at maybe 15* on both sides, maybe 1/16 to 1/8" back from the edge should do it. We had ours off and on quite a few times. You just have to get it as strait as you can with the through spar box and the n get it started at the top or bottom corner. If you gently shake it up and down after you get it started into the box while pushing in with some pressure it will go in little by little tell you get one of the bolts holes to alien. Push that first bolt though then gently pick up or push down to get the other holes to match. Hope this helps, yours, R.E.A. III #80888

 

[wirejock]

Wing spar

I barely touched them. Apply a tiny bit of lube on the front and rear spars. The trick is insertion get the spar straight I to the center section.
Also, watch for the bottom wing skinot catching on the fuse bottom skin. A section of scrap aluminum will allow one to slide over the other.

 

[AAflyer]

Spar bevels...

...I don't remember putting a file to my spars. I'm sure than I checked them for burrs, and probably smoothed off the corners a little bit , but I also installed them with the help of my son. After placing the wing on a couple of sawhorses, we worked together to get the spar started in the box, then he finished with wiggling and constant pressure from the wingtip, while I guided the rear spar into position. It slid in with a quick THUNK, which made me wince, as I was sure I had bent the lower skins...but I lucked out; no damage. After reviewing my builder's website, I saw that I had to clean out the bolt holes in order to get the temporary bolts to slip in easily. I lubed the spars for this operation and temporary bolts slipped in without a hitch.
Hope this helps.

Might need to copy and paste this link to see my website entry. No closeups of spar prep, though. Sorry.


http://websites.expercraft.com/dbw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=87172

 

[cacflyer]

Many thanks for the replies. It seems the answer is it depends. It seems the spar box is a bit on the narrow side, and the general advice from Vans is to use an oblong wooden or plastic handle or similar to insert into the spar box from inside the fuse, to use as a cam, to open the spar box just a bit. It's not obvious the spar box is somewhat moveable, but it is.

I tested this last night, and plan to try in anger so to speak Saturday.

I really appreciate all replies to my question!!

Regards,