Jim, just did these on my 7A a couple of weeks ago, so the pain is still fresh in my mind. A couple of things I noted when doing mine:
1. Start from the outboard bolts and work inboards. Fully tighten each nut before moving to the next one. If you don't do this, you will not be able to get your wrench on the previous nut that you left loose.
2. It is not possible to torque most of these nuts with a torque wrench because of access and the fact that you can only rotate the bolt. And the prevailing torque of the bolt in its hole is very high, meaning the you are not torquing the nut to the required value. Just torque it until the prevailing torque spikes up which indicates that it is bottomed and squeezing, then turn another quarter turn.
3. I used crows foot wrenches with a 3/8" drive universal attached, then a 6" extension for all of the nuts. This was the ONLY combination which worked to hold the nuts out of many ways attempted. Note that you cannot TURN the nuts at all, the best you can do is KEEP THEM FROM TURNING while you rotate the bolt on the aft side. Some people use a flat screwdriver blade wedged against the nut to keep it from rotating, but I was able to use the crows foot wrench which is a little less ghetto I guess.
4. Several people reported using liquid nitrogen to cool and shrink the bolts. I found this to be unnecessary. A small hammer worked fine to tap the lubricated bolt shanks in without ridiculous effort.
5. When driving the bolts in, drive them slowly/carefully so that only 2 threads show on the fwd end. Then start the nut, drive a little more, torque a little, drive a little, then tighten completely. If you drive the bolt too far, you will not be able to get the nut on because of interference with the gear weldments.
6. After each bolt is in, get out of the airplane and take a walk. Shake off the cramps and start again on the next bolt. It took me all of 8 or 10 hours to get these bolts in and tight!