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When to rivet sub-panel?

Jim P

Well Known Member
I'm installing rudder/brake pedals for the final time, as well as vent fittings, vent line, etc, so I can start the wiring process.

When should I rivet the sub-panel assembly to the fuse? I know it's nice to keep this out of the way for as long as possible, but it needs to go in prior to wiring.

Any further guidance on this one?

Jim
 
I think you answered your own question. Any time after installing rudder pedals and before wiring. I waited to permanently install mine until I cut the hole for the avionics to stick through, but I think you already did that, right?
 
Riveting Sub-Panel

Yup, already cut the hole for the avionics. I may need to cut one of the panel ribs but can do that on the plane.
 
Issues

1. You will likely need to cut an access hole for radio, etc. I had to do it after riveting. It would be better done before.
2. Plan on at least partially disassembling the rudder pedal ***'y when you rivet the forward top skin (tip-up). It's ok to fit it, but you may need to move it out of the way.
3. Plan on moving the fuel tank vent tubes out of the way for riveting, too.
4. Consider at least on the tip-up, how canopy fitting depends on knowing exactly where that sub-panel is going to be. Clecoes are simply not precise enough for this.
5. Plan around how to rivet the top forward skin where access will be difficult because of the tip-up pin-puller belcrank or whatever you call it. Conversly, how will you get the cotter pins into the darn thing after riveting? I ended up with a few blind rivets. You may do better with more thinking up front.
 
Vent lines then pedals should be last to go in after all other fuse work is done. Also, you ought to remove the center section controls if you put them in already since you'll be on your back over the spar more than in your worst dreams. Your vertebrae will appreciate it.

John Siebold
Boise, ID
 
Pedals?

So once the sub-panel is riveted in, is it still possible to get the rudder pedals in?
 
Jim P said:
So once the sub-panel is riveted in, is it still possible to get the rudder pedals in?
Should be. Something I'd do differently next time is to slice the bushing blocks on the ends of the rudder pedal weldments. Slice 'em in half and use AN960-10L washers to take up the "space" that the slice took out. In my experience, it's no problem getting the rudder pedal weldments in/out without the bushing blocks, but when the blocks are installed on the ends, it's a lot tougher. With split bushing blocks, it should be no sweat. Double check me on this before you do any final riveting! :rolleyes:
 
Jim P said:
So once the sub-panel is riveted in, is it still possible to get the rudder pedals in?

Yup.. had to take mine out when we painted the interior.. I'm not sure if you can wiggle it out with both plastic blocks on.. but taking one off would do it. My blocks slide on and off really easy, so that wasn't an issue.
 
Radomir said:
Yup.. had to take mine out when we painted the interior.. I'm not sure if you can wiggle it out with both plastic blocks on..

On my airplane at least, you can remove the rudder pedals with the blocks still attached - no problems once you discover the magic angle to finagle it free. Which is good for me because my bushing blocks are pretty tight on the cross tubes... :)

mcb
 
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