When to install stick wiring

[sglynn]

I've just started installing wiring for non avionics stuff. No engine yet but all structure complete. Seems like some wiring for lights trim servos etc can be done now.

Question is when can I install control stick wiring and not have to remove them for something? I can't see why not do it early. But am I not seeing a reason they will have to come out?

Forward upper structure not not riveted yet.

 

[Charles in SC]

If you use an after market panel some of them extend lower than the stock Vans. I you need to cut the stick off after the panel is in the grip and wires would need to be removed. I would wait until later.

 

[sglynn]

Cutting off sticks

Yes, I know. I've got my panel size and already cut the sticks. Given the lack of feedback, I went ahead and wired both sticks today with connectors on each so grips can be taken off if needed. It was fun.

 

[Raymo]

No help now since you already did it but I am basically wiring from the tail forward.

Pilot side Infinity grip installed yesterday but not yet wired. Next will be trim/flap relay install and wiring to the various items and I picked up the Dynon ICS so could install the headset jacks and get those wires run forward in preparation for the rest of the avionic. I've found, while helping others, that the intercom wiring is the toughest part, due to the shielded wiring, soldering and all the grounding wires they require.

Waiting for my 66 Cherokee 140 to sell so I can pick up an engine and some basic avionics.

 

[sglynn]

Wiring from aft forward

Ray
Yes, I started in the tail and moved forward also. When I got to the relays for the trim servos I discovered VP-X and I'm going with it. I'll have to sell those relays. Good idea on the intercom. I might do that next.


thanks

 

[Smilin' Jack]

Steve,
For what it is worth,
When I wired up my grips, I mounted a terminal block with epoxy to the floor panel under to the outboard side of the sticks. I labelled the each wire going up to the stick such as trim top hat. PTT, autopilot disconnect, ident button,and ground. Therefore when I got the wires ran from the harness from the avionics I just put terminal rings on those wires and fastened them to the corresponding terminals on the strips.mmalso down the road should I need to retire the stick for any reason I just disconnect the stick wires and pull the grip off . It has worked excellent.

Smilin' Jack

 

[Raymo]

Good idea on the terminal block. I was going to just use some extra male/female pins from unused DB connectors, crimp them on and shrink wrap. If they need to come apart, it is easy enough to cut the shrink tubing and replace with new.

 

[sglynn]

Grip Wiring and Connector

I saw some images of folks using a terminal strip at the bottom of the grips and really considered that. Perhaps I saw yours.

I ended using .062 Molex 9 pin connector just below the wooden grip. It slides into the stick. There is enough slop in the wiring at the bottom of the stick to pull the grip up to connect or disconnect that connector. The slop at the bottom is only enough to support movement of the stick. My wire comes out the bottom (I did not drill a hole in stick) of the stick. I attached the wires to the side of the rib with an Adel clamp and the whole thing works fine. I will post photos shortly at www.mykitlog.com/sglynn. I did the same on the co-pilot side just below the stick separation so I can remove the whole stick.

PS: How is the epoxy glue holding down the terminal strip? Will it last? And are you concerned about exposing positive voltage on a terminal strip in case something touches it?

 

[Smilin' Jack]

Steve,
The industrial strength epoxy is holding well with two years of flying. I did rough up the surface on the terminal block.. I have cable clamps, that are epoxied to the floor also to keep any pressure off the terminal block.. They normally come with double sticky tape but that does not hold too well.
Jack