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Wheel Bearing question

Paul 5r4

Paul 5r4

Well Known Member
I just completed the first condition insp on my 7A. Also I just got the plane back from the paint shop a couple weeks ago. I did notice that the landing gear/wheels were making a "different" sound than what I was accustomed to hearing since my first take off coming home from the paint shop. Ok, now back to the condition inspection. I pulled the wheels off to inspect, clean and repack wheel bearings. This is what I found. On three of the four bearing surfaces, these marks. I can feel nothing when wiping my finger over them. Interestingly, the bearings that came from each of the affected spots were a darker color than the "shiney" new look. the bearings look normal otherwise. When the condition insp. was completed and I flew again, the sound is still there... it's kinda of a "ZZZZzzzzzzz" sound that get higher in pitch until I lift off then of course it stops. Same thing on landing. What in the world is going on??? Could the surfaces have been "etched" or something during the paint/wash down or something? Could this cause me a problem like a freezed up bearing during takeoff or landing... that would be bad! Not likeing the idea of the cost of new wheels either!!! Just wonder what has happened. Any thoughts certainly appreciated.

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I would try cleaning the race with solvent to remove those marks. The race should clean and very smooth. Repack them well and see if that solves the problem.

Bird
 
You need to replace the bearings and races, they're brinnelled badly. You may be running the nut too tight and as the wheels spin the heat generated by the bearings causes everything to become too tight.
 
replacing the races

Walt, thanks for the fantastic link! Lots of VERY good info there! Where would I find out about replacing the races? Are they pressed in or something?

Thanks again.
 
not too tight

Bob, Thanks for the post but the nut is not too tight. It is exactly where it was, I marked it before removing, the entire first year of flying. Wheels spin freely.

Thanks.
 
Bearings

Looks like water/ wash damage- Had the same thing happen when I had my cherokee painted 5 years ago, had to replace them.
 
You need a hammer and something similar to a big dull screwdriver. If you lay a wheel half on wood or something with the inside up you can see the edge of the race (cup) in the axle hole. Use the screwdriver/hammer to knock it out by going around hitting a little bit here & there so you don't get it cocked. After it falls out, grind the OD of the old race so it will fall into the wheel easily. Use this on top of the new race as you go around knocking in the new one. Knock it in until the sound tells you it's evenly and fully seated all around.
 
Thanks everyone

Thanks for all the replies. I've already taken the wheels off and will be replacing with new Bearings tomorrow.
 
A brass drift and hammer will remove the races, but be carefull not to damage the AL wheel. If in doubt, a good machine shop can press them out and in for you.

Roberta
 
Amazing how timely things are sometimes

While I have yet to do this on an aircraft wheel, I am preparing to do this same sort of thing for the travel trailer that I haul to KOSH every year for Airventure. There are lots of youtube videos describing the general procedure. there is also a hints for homebuilders video on the EAA website, but he does not cover the removal and replacement of the races, just the removal/repalcement of the seals and repacking the bearings. I have seen everything from a wood block to a large metal water pipe used to remove the races. They are a press fit and will most likely take some force to remove.

Love the idea of taking them to a shop with appropriate tools to force them out. Seems to be the less violent and safer way to do it. Also agree from the pics that both the bearings and the races need to be replaced, as well as comments about the securing the wheel nut.
 
Take a look at the nuts on your bolts that hold the wheels together. The bolts do not show enough threads beyond the nylocks.

I had the same problem and sent Parker some pictures. They first said they were not their wheels then after I sent a picture of their label they finally admitted they had a problem with a batch that was sent out.

They finally sent me an upgrade kit with longer bolts, nuts and new labels for the wheels.

You may want to check with them.

Steve
RV7A
N315S
 
Use a press

I would recommend using a press to replace the races. That is how they are installed. It is a simple pres fit. No heat or other techniques are required.
 
Wheel bearings

For the number of miles these things see, they suffer disproportionate failure. I've gone through 2 sets in 1400 hours. And I repack every year. They are cheap to replace but it is tempting to replace them all with Alan's sealed bearings and forego the repacking every year.

I have gotten in the habit of, a couple of times a year, cutting the engine on roll out on a smooth runway and pulling off my headsets to listen for the buzz or rumble of bad bearings. Very apparent.
 
wheel bearing update and $$$ saved!

Just to pass on the the new main wheel bearings/cups are in and no more ZZZzzzzzz sounds! I do have some info that saved about 225 bucks that I'll pass on. I needed 4 new bearings and 4 new cups, (the nose wheel set was fine), here was the cost...

Vans Aircraft $95.00 X 4 = $380.00
Aircraft Spruce $58.00 X 4 = $232.00
Motion Industries $39.31 X 4 = $157.24

I went with motion industries! Just FYI.
Also thought you'd get a kick from my homemade press to press them in. It worked like a champ!
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Good move, since most NAPA auto parts stores and Pep Boys carry the same bearings...just read the numbers off the old ones.

Best,
 
Paul 5r4 said:
Just to pass on the the new main wheel bearings/cups are in and no more ZZZzzzzzz sounds! I do have some info that saved about 225 bucks that I'll pass on. I needed 4 new bearings and 4 new cups, (the nose wheel set was fine), here was the cost...

Vans Aircraft $95.00 X 4 = $380.00
Aircraft Spruce $58.00 X 4 = $232.00
Motion Industries $39.31 X 4 = $157.24

I went with motion industries! Just FYI.
Also thought you'd get a kick from my homemade press to press them in. It worked like a champ!
Click to expand...

Can you give us part numbers for the bearings and races from motion industries?
 
Put the races in the freezer and the hub in the sun or warm oven. The races will drop right in without a press.
 
You guys are over thinking this process.......

As mentioned By Roberta, Use a brass drift and tap out the race. The new race will tap right back in. NO PRESS NEEDED.
This is an easy thing to do. You can replace the bearing (including the race) without removing the tire from the rim.

The bearings can be purchased at your local bearing store. Just take your old one in.

Example........ Bearing for my nose wheel.... TIMKEN p/n BR6 cost $8.44 each. 8/3/07.

Harbor Freight has a nice cheap brass drift.


PS...... When you purchase a new bearing, they come with the race. They are part of the bearing and must be replaced with the bearing. You cannot purchase them alone. Never place a new bearing on an old race.
 
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Easy!!

Just warm the wheel hub with a heat gun. Aluminum expands more than steel. Tap the race out with a drift.

Cool the new race and it will drop into a warm wheel.

A&P 101 from 1969 :D
 
bearings

Pierre, yes I did take them to the local autoparts store and they had everything I needed except I'd had to change brands and I just wanted to stay with the timken brand because that's what Vans had sent with the kit. I'm sure any of the other would have been fine too... I guess I'm a little OCD. :)

Alton, if you ever need bearings, the numbers you'll need are stamped on the side of both the cone bearing and the cup race.

Gasman, actually you have to purchase the bearing halves separate. The cone or "male" half has the rollers and the cup or "female" half is the race which is pressed in.
 
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