Van's Air Force
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What type of solder used?
- Thread starter Fearless
- Start date
pierre smith
Well Known Member
Non-acid
Hi Mike,
Generally 60/40 resin core but no acid-core solder. Soldering flux also helps the solder "wick" much better.
Regards,
Hi Mike,
Generally 60/40 resin core but no acid-core solder. Soldering flux also helps the solder "wick" much better.
Regards,
William Slaughter
Well Known Member
63/37 Rocks!
63/37 solder is unique in that it goes directly from the liquid state to the solid state without an intermediate "plastic" state, which is where you get into trouble. Any movement of the parts, however tiny, while the solder is passing through this plastic state will degrade the integrity of the joint. 60/40 has a very narrow plastic range, and obviously can work well, but why not order a pound of 63/37 Kester or Multicore from Mouser or Digikey as PJ suggested? It'll probably last you the rest of your life, and as Bob Nuckoll's likes to say "its the best we know how to do". I've got mine (actually I bought some Kester and some Multicore)
and I'm ready to fire up the soldering iron (when I'm not crimping, of course) !
63/37 solder is unique in that it goes directly from the liquid state to the solid state without an intermediate "plastic" state, which is where you get into trouble. Any movement of the parts, however tiny, while the solder is passing through this plastic state will degrade the integrity of the joint. 60/40 has a very narrow plastic range, and obviously can work well, but why not order a pound of 63/37 Kester or Multicore from Mouser or Digikey as PJ suggested? It'll probably last you the rest of your life, and as Bob Nuckoll's likes to say "its the best we know how to do". I've got mine (actually I bought some Kester and some Multicore)
and I'm ready to fire up the soldering iron (when I'm not crimping, of course) !
jdeas
Well Known Member
solder is only one step to a good connection
William Slaughter is on the money for solder but I would be more concerned about wire prep for those new to wiring. Nicked wires or soldered connections without the proper support would seem to be a more important issue given their intermittent nature.
Many people I see seem to use solder as tack glue. They fail to properly wrap or crimp connections before soldering. If you take the position that the wire should wrap a connection or be crimped and that the solder is only used to flow the connection and make it airtight then life several years down the road will be better. This also goes with proper support of the wire where the solder ends.
Use an electronics rated solder and be sure to follow the directions of the manufacture of the connector.
William Slaughter is on the money for solder but I would be more concerned about wire prep for those new to wiring. Nicked wires or soldered connections without the proper support would seem to be a more important issue given their intermittent nature.
Many people I see seem to use solder as tack glue. They fail to properly wrap or crimp connections before soldering. If you take the position that the wire should wrap a connection or be crimped and that the solder is only used to flow the connection and make it airtight then life several years down the road will be better. This also goes with proper support of the wire where the solder ends.
Use an electronics rated solder and be sure to follow the directions of the manufacture of the connector.
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If at all possible, stay away from solder. The stiff soldered wire can get brittle and break. It requires MORE support and is not the best solution for an aircraft electrical system.
If you must use solder, you want 63/37 solder as it does not have a plastic state. The three most important things about soldering is, Clean, Clean, Clean.
Here is some reading material.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Getting_Started.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
Bob Nuckles comments are in RED on an article written by someone else.
Headphone, mic, and 'Push Then Talk' buttons all will require solder. I also make my own solder sleaves (similar to what Bob Nuckles does with a "poor man's solder sleave") to terminate shieled wires.
I do not solder wires in an aircraft is there is another way to get the job done. This is from someone that had training to solder wires and terminals to standards for SPACE flight.
If you must use solder, you want 63/37 solder as it does not have a plastic state. The three most important things about soldering is, Clean, Clean, Clean.
Here is some reading material.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Getting_Started.pdf
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/rules/review.html
Bob Nuckles comments are in RED on an article written by someone else.
Headphone, mic, and 'Push Then Talk' buttons all will require solder. I also make my own solder sleaves (similar to what Bob Nuckles does with a "poor man's solder sleave") to terminate shieled wires.
I do not solder wires in an aircraft is there is another way to get the job done. This is from someone that had training to solder wires and terminals to standards for SPACE flight.
Fearless
Well Known Member
Thanks for the replies
I have a set of the CreativAir LED position lights that I wll need to assemble at some point and wanted to know what solder I should be using.
I'm seriously thinking of taking a Sportair class on aircraft electrical work if one gets closer to me. I thought I saw where the EAA had classes in Indy last year but I don't see any for this year. Columbus OH seems to be the closest this year.
Thanks,
I have a set of the CreativAir LED position lights that I wll need to assemble at some point and wanted to know what solder I should be using.
I'm seriously thinking of taking a Sportair class on aircraft electrical work if one gets closer to me. I thought I saw where the EAA had classes in Indy last year but I don't see any for this year. Columbus OH seems to be the closest this year.
Thanks,
jdeas
Well Known Member
Digikey
Mike,
Digikey sells 63/37 Kester for $13-$14
Try www.digikey.com pt# KE1400-ND. While I would normally use 60/40 for PCB work this will do fine and as stated elsewhere in this thread is also suggested for soldering connectors.
It is a 'no clean' solder so a flux cleaner is not needed. That being said, I would use some alcohol to clean any flux seen on the board after assembly. While I have no data to support this, I clean any PCB used in rough environments for fear of moisture retention.
While ordering solder, it would also be a good time to get a new tip for that soldering iron
Mike,
Digikey sells 63/37 Kester for $13-$14
Try www.digikey.com pt# KE1400-ND. While I would normally use 60/40 for PCB work this will do fine and as stated elsewhere in this thread is also suggested for soldering connectors.
It is a 'no clean' solder so a flux cleaner is not needed. That being said, I would use some alcohol to clean any flux seen on the board after assembly. While I have no data to support this, I clean any PCB used in rough environments for fear of moisture retention.
While ordering solder, it would also be a good time to get a new tip for that soldering iron
lucky333
Well Known Member
