Wings:
EFIS (Not sure what kind yet, but most have some sort of AOA meter… do I need different static lines etc? or do they come in the kit?)
The AFS system relies on differential static ports, IIRC you need to plumb three lines: one static port above the wing, one below, and one for the pitot tube. The standalone AFS systems require an external box to interpret AOA. No idea how their EFIS does it.
The Dynon system requires two lines, both plumbed to their proprietary pitot tube (there are two holes in the pitot tube itself offset by some angle). Not sure if Dynon requires a separate box or if the math is done at the efis.
The MGL EFIS will work with either system and the AOA is computed at the EFIS.
Regardless of system, you will have to plumb these lines to the wing. Van's will include enough plastic tubing to plumb their "excuse for a pitot tube" and the static ports. Anything above and beyond is on your dime. The
Safeair pitot/static tubing looks really nice but I have no experience with it.
Autopilot (2 axis, heading hold/altitude hold, gps/vor track, intercept, etc. Altitude preselect would be nice, but not required)
Where the servos live will depend on your choice of vendor and the model of RV you are building. I know that for the 8 with the TruTrak AP, all servos live in fuselage (one near the elevator bellcrank, and one near the center control column). Not sure about the 7 but I seem to recall that the pitch servo connects the same. The roll servo may go on the wing and you would need a different aileron bellcrank bracket to install it. TruTrak (not sure about other vendors) will let you buy just the brackets and postpone the purchase of the servos.
Again, do some research on what you want to put out there before you close the wing. Putting servos in the wing after the fact is not impossible but a little more complicated. I think that if you leave your options open by not rivetting the outboard lower skin until you absolutely have to, you can postpone this decision until later.
IFR Day/Night capable…
COM/NAV wiring/antennas (not sure if they have anything to do with the wings!)
ADF (undecided…)
NAV Lights (kinda like LED, but not sold quite yet, may just be traditional)
Stobes
Wingtip landing lights with wig-wag (possibly HID?)
Conduit (What's it made out of and where do I get it? How much is enough?)
Marker Beacon
Make provisions for all of this wiring before closing the wings. Have Van's throw a roll of
this in your wing kit ($10 for 25 feet) and plumb it in your wing. Run a string thru it and leave it alone until you know what you want to run thru it. If you are going to use a centrally located strobe controller, you will want to run that (high voltage?) wire separate from your other wiring.
COM and NAV antennae will be location dependent, I've seen some builders put wingtip mounted antenas and obviously you would have to run coax out to the tip. I will mount bent whip antenas under the fuse so I didn't account for that in the wing. I'm no electrical whiz but I don't think I want a strobe next to my antena. Maybe those that have successfully implemented that can chime in.
Electric Flaps (wiring etc included in the kit?)
Flaps are wired in the fuse so not a factor for your wing kit.
Havent decided on engine... havent even thought about it actually... I'd have to research the pros & cons of carb'd vs fuel injected...
Not relevant for your wing kit. You can worry about this when you order your finishing kit where you'll have to select your mount.
So, with all that being said, what am I going to need in the wings, and what is required to be installed during the build process of the WINGS? Like I mentioned before, I cant afford to dump a bunch of money into stuff Im not going to need until way down the road... but then again, I dont want to build the wings, and then find out I left something out and have no way of installing it if that makes sense?
For now I would only add the proseal and the conduit. But do start thinking about all the other goodies as you build and don't close the wings until you absolutely have to. Do everything up to riveting the lower-outboard skins.
I hope this helps.