What electrical switches do you use?

[Jeff R]

I am finally getting seriously underway on my panel design but am trying to figure out which brand/style of toggle switch to use. There are the S700 series from B and C, but they don't seem to disclose the manufacturer of the switch so I can compare them with other switches of known lineage. ACS has a variety of switches, too, that might work.

I don't want a cheap switch, but neither do I want a heavy duty switch that takes too much force to operate.

Some of the switches will operate heavy current users such as the landing light, while others will feed low currents, such as the battery contactor. Usual stuff.

So, what brand and style of switch did you all use in your panel, and are you happy with the choice and, if doing it again, would you choose something different?

 

[Mel]

When looking for switches, make sure that they are rated for the maximum current you need for that particular load and that they are "DC" rated.

 

[Mike S]

I used Honeywell switches, so I could have the faces engraved by these folks and I am pleased with the results.

One of the goals I was shooting for was matching the breaker switches the previous builder had installed.

You can see the finished product on this post.

The Honeywells are on the left, breaker switches under radio stack.

Good luck.

 

[Rick_A]

Honeywell TL

I used Honeywell TL's throughout, except for a couple of mini switches. I've been told by a trusted source that it's highly unlikely that I'll have a switch failure in my lifetime with the TL's.

 

[vlittle]

I blew the whistle on the unreliable Carling switches that have been failing due to the loosening of the riveted terminals. A long thread exists on the Aeroelectric list archive that discusses this. I then swapped out my Carling switches with Honeywell 11TS switches and ran a direct comparison test.

The 11TS switches use a more secure riveting system that is more immune to vibration and heat stresses (after 100 hours of flight testing, no failures) compared to the Carling switches (3 failures in 150 hours). Carling failures included overheating and charred terminals. Others have reported similar failures with the Carling switches.

In my opinion, use a premium brand of switch. Honeywell swithes have so far provided me much more reliable service. Bob Nuckolls and I spent a lot of time and effort researching this in order to help the OBAM community.

Vern

 

[petercavallo]

I used rocker switches from NKK

Hi current switches in my RV6 gave it a custom look , price was nice too, email me for pics if you wish 200 hrs on RV6 so far

Peter

 

[frankh]

Went to the local Autoparts store and ordered a bunch of identical switches for a about $1.20 a piece from memory, rated to 10Amps

Have used them in two airplanes over about 1000 hours and never had a switch failure.

Seeing as how my electrics are designed for redundancy that was good enough for me, even in IFR.

For multipole switches i went to B&C and they look very similar to the single pole units above.

Frank

 

[lucaperazzolli]

switches

Eaton

MS-24523-23

826-8203

 

[Brantel]

I had one B&C switch tab get loose after I put on and pulled off the connector a couple times. I just soldered the rivet to the tab and it was fine.

 

[Garage Guy]

APEM switches

You might look at APEM's line of toggle switches.

Better quality than Carling or generic Radio Shack toggles IMO. Maybe not as tough as Honeywell/Eaton, but pretty reasonably priced and they've been working fine in our RV-6's panel.

One thing about the Honeywell toggle switches... it can be hard to find them with .250" faston lugs, if that's the way you want to go. Personally, I prefer those to screw terminals.

Here's a PDF data sheet for the APEM 'high amperage' toggles:
http://www.apem.com/pdf/600H-600NH.pdf

And a PDF of Digikey's catalog page for the ones they stock:
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T091/P2077.pdf

Here's a photo of an APEM 641H/22V DPST locking toggle. We use these for BATT/ALT Master and EBus Master:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/APEM Comp Photos/641H~22V.jpg

And the 648NH/2, with a flat handle, we use for a flap switch:
http://media.digikey.com/photos/APEM Comp Photos/645NH~2, 647NH~2, 648NH~2, 649NH~2.jpg

--Paul

 

[jlk]

Breaker in the switch?

Has anyone been using these;

http://www.e-t-a.com/uploads/prodb/D_1410-F1_e_B.pdf

that incorporate a breaker in the switch?

 

[RudiGreyling]

Has anyone been using these;

http://www.e-t-a.com/uploads/prodb/D_1410-F1_e_B.pdf

that incorporate a breaker in the switch?

On my new panel I am also thinking about the switches with integrated breakers. It seems like a good idea, cuase you save panel space. Any cons I am not aware of?

PS: to the original question, if I remember correctly Aero Electric says that if the switch does not have a DC AMP rating, then choose the desired DC AMP rating at 125 VAC switch rating. Don't quote me on this without getting another confirmation from another member.

Regards
Rudi