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VS Spar Nutplates & Torque

sys1jal

I'm New Here
All the things that they don't mention in the small print (ain't experience
a wonderful thing to have).

From forum research, I learned that K1000-3 nut plates are self-locking.
So the AN3 bolt goes easily about 2 turns and then stops. If you do another turn and then extract the bolt, the first thread or two look worn, almost cross-thread.

#1
I assume that all the driven threads (exposed) beyond the taper on the K1000-3 would look worn once the bolt is fully driven. Is that correct and normal?

#2
Can the AN3 bolts be inserted and removed a few times with no damage?

#3
I may have cross-threaded a few threads of one nutplate inserting and extracting the bolts. Can I use a 10-32 tap to try to dress the "starting" threads.

#4
Anybody remember what "drag value" you used in addition to the 20-25 "/lbs of torque for an AN3 bolt.

Thanks,
Joe
 
Try to answer these.

All the things that they don't mention in the small print (ain't experience
a wonderful thing to have).

From forum research, I learned that K1000-3 nut plates are self-locking.
So the AN3 bolt goes easily about 2 turns and then stops. If you do another turn and then extract the bolt, the first thread or two look worn, almost cross-thread.

#1
I assume that all the driven threads (exposed) beyond the taper on the K1000-3 would look worn once the bolt is fully driven. Is that correct and normal? YES

#2
Can the AN3 bolts be inserted and removed a few times with no damage?
YES

#3
I may have cross-threaded a few threads of one nutplate inserting and extracting the bolts. Can I use a 10-32 tap to try to dress the "starting" threads.
Not a good idea. A tap will likely remove the self-locking feature.
#4
Anybody remember what "drag value" you used in addition to the 20-25 "/lbs of torque for an AN3 bolt.

I believe about 10"/lbs.

Thanks,
Joe


John Bender
 
All the things that they don't mention in the small print (ain't experience
a wonderful thing to have).

Joe... I have run into a lot of things that everyone "just knows," not only building this plane, but in many other endeavors :). If you get a parts catalogue from VAN's you will notice Nylok and All Metal Lock versions of aircraft nuts. The All Metal Lock versions of nuts are also oval. Some all metal lock nuts are back ordered and the kits ship with the Nylok version of these nuts.

You are also just supposed to "just know" that you don't use a low temperture elastic stop nut where the temperature is higher than 250F, as can be seen forward of the firewall.
 
VS Spar and Nutplates & Torque

John,

Try using Boelube on bolt threads prior to installation. Just be aware that
torquing values are normally for dry (unlubricated) threads. Sam
 
To be specific...

#1
I assume that all the driven threads (exposed) beyond the taper on the K1000-3 would look worn once the bolt is fully driven. Is that correct and normal?

Yes

#2
Can the AN3 bolts be inserted and removed a few times with no damage?

Yes - this is perfectly acceptable

#3
I may have cross-threaded a few threads of one nutplate inserting and extracting the bolts. Can I use a 10-32 tap to try to dress the "starting" threads.

No - not if you want to keep the original characteristics of the nutplate

#4
Anybody remember what "drag value" you used in addition to the 20-25 "/lbs of torque for an AN3 bolt.

It varies - you measure each insertion, and add it to the final torque required. It will get less with re-use.
 
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