What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Vert Stab Rivet Question (Careful I'm a novice)

mkmuch

mkmuch

Active Member
Guys -

I am about to attach the vert stab skin to the structure - I understand what I am supposed to do but struggle with the best way to accomplish the task. The instructions say to leave the bottom spars out (done) and rivet the middle / forward spar first - (understood)?

How does one get their big fat hand up there - hold the bucking bar and hit it with the rivet gun and not dance the gun down the skin?

My only assumption is this is one of those operations best performed by two people - correct?

Or is there a better way?

Thx.:confused:
 
Last edited:
I could do it much better now but you answered your own question. Two will make it much easier, make sure you are using a rivet set with some sort of slip resistance like a rubber or plastic edge to make sure it stays in place. Set your air pressure around 38 to 42 psi. Most -10's have a less than perfect rivet job on the VS, actually a lot of the RV's do as does mine. Minor dings can be filled with filler prior to paint. FWIW the bucking bar will cause a ding as much as the gun. Practice as much as you dare prior to working on the actual airframe.
 
I did a lot of mine by myself, with good success. I did have help with the nose ribs, which were the most difficult to get too, and get the skin and rib to stay tight.

The rubber gripper on the rivet set, was a big help at this stage.
 
build a cradle

If I was to build mine again by myself I would build a cradle like you do with the horizontal stabilizer, but it can be done by yourself (and the dings you make.. and you will make them.. are never as bad as they look)

Consider the VS the real practice kit and by the time you are finished with the build you will realize the dings you made are nothing.
 
Thanks Guys...

I guess I just need the push - I'll go jump now!

I have a local RV friend maybe I can have him hold my hand while I jump.
 
Yeah, I remember that step. I screwed up my skin pretty good because I was a rookie. It sucks that you have to start with the most difficult rivets first.

Two people makes it much easier. After some experience, it won't be a big deal anymore. You'll be able to do it alone. But I'd use a second pair of hands for now until you get your feet underneath you...

Phil
 
thats what I did

Phil said:
Good point, Rene....

If I had it to do again, I'd just put one average sided flute right smack dab in the middle of nose rib. Just to pull the edges in a bit tighter.
Click to expand...

That is exactly what I did on my VS and HS nose ribs, came out great.
 
Another trick is a good bucking bar. Use the smaller, dense one that is the size of a candy bar, not the lighter bigger one. It is sold in several places seperately from the "tool kits" that most everyone bought. I use that bar for 95% of the solo rivets I buck. I also used painter's tape liberally around the edge of the bucking bar, you do have to add/replace it often, but it cuts down on the dings/scratches the bucking bar leaves.
 
Good Thoughts

Couple Notes...

1. Too Late on the signature ding from the middle nose rib - oh well, the funny thing is the VAN's proto-type -10 has the same ding but you can't really notice it unless you look close. Mine is pretty small as I tried to take as much off as I thought I could - should have been more aggressive. I could order another skin but not sure it's really worth the trouble.

2. I like the fluting suggestion - I think I will uncleco the skin and go back and put a small - medium sized flute in the nose rib.

3. I bought a nice "Candy bar" sized Tungsten bar - it's the one I definately have used the most - small and heavy!

4. I hope this is one of the most challenging areas of the build - but something tells me it won't be. :(

That QB option is looking more and more attractive by the minute!
 
Last edited:
Thanks Team

I managed it - with the help of a second set of hands (friend and fellow builder Doug Jones -7 & -10).

I used several of your suggestions - I wanted to say thank you.

On to finish the rudder.
 
I just noticed Rick S.'s response where he has his PSI up around 40. On my gun, 25 to 30 works best for 3-x rivets and 40 for 4-x rivets. That's not an I'm right and he's wrong post; what I'm saying is try it out on some scrap and figure out what works best for you. You have to do enough test rivets to see where you get the best consistency at; you really don't want to learn this on your plane. There are some other factors here - the stiffness of the structure you will be riveting, difficulty in reaching the shop head to buck, and so on. I found that the lighter the structure the lighter the pressure worked best for me, generally speaking. Except for back riveting where pressure really didn't matter a whole lot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top