Vans Static Port Kit

[Capflyer]

Ok...what's the secret of having the static tube stay on the tiny set rivet imitating a static port? I tried keeping it on with RTV but it seems way to flimsy for the long haul. Anyone have a better solution?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[dan]

From what I've heard, don't pull the pop rivet until the shaft snaps. Just compress it enough to hold it in place, then punch the shaft out the back. That'll leave more "meat" for the tubing to push onto.

However...I didn't do that. I pulled the things until they snapped just like any other pop rivet. I punched out the shaft then pushed tubing onto 'em and RTV'd around 'em. Worked. It has been 950+ hours of flying and no static issues. I've passed IFR checks twice so far. As cheesy as it may seem to do it the "stock" way, it's hard to debate that it works and Van's pop rivet static ports don't produce as much error as other approaches have reportedly produced.

 

[chaskuss]

Throw that junk out! The white polypropolene tubing is also junk! Mine split 4 days after I installed it, using Vans instructions. I purchased the Cleaveland static ports. However, I recommend you buy a set of the really cool (and cheap) ports sold by Mark Phillips (he won best metal at Sun N' Fun this year)
My buddy Peter Laurence bought a set of Mark's ports. They are really nice and have the correct shape. (This is critical to getting a correct reading) See

http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/

You can contact him at [email protected]

Buy yourself some real Nyloflow tubing (made in the USA) from ACS, Wicks or your local commerical A/C supply vendor.

Charlie Kuss

 

[sf3543]

If you want to use the VANs method, don't squeeze the rivet at all. Take the mandrel out and then insert the virgin rivet into the hole and glue it in with JB Weld or pro-Seal. After that dries, then slide on the tubing and hold it in place with a tie wrap. You could also use some RTV over this if you like.
This method lasted for 900 hrs on my RV6 and was still working fine when sold.
In my opinion, VAN's methods almost always work as advertised and are usually the simplest and most elegant of solutions. (His pitot tube and aileron trim system also comes to mind.) If you want to spend more $ for fancier solutions, which I have done in a lot of cases, you can, but that's up to the builder.

 

[DGlaeser]

Static ports

If you want to use the VANs method, don't squeeze the rivet at all. Take the mandrel out and then insert the virgin rivet into the hole and glue it in with JB Weld or pro-Seal. After that dries, then slide on the tubing and hold it in place with a tie wrap. You could also use some RTV over this if you like.
...

I just did this (I used JB Weld) - but I used Marine GOOP on the tubing and no tie wrap. I've yanked on it and it's not going anywhere.

 

[Capflyer]

Thanks Guys

Thank you for the input. Dan, I did as you suggested and only pulled the rivet enough to set it along with a dab of JB Weld on the inside of the rivet head where it sits flush against the skin. Then I used my punch to slightly flair the inside hole so the tube had some additional friction on it. Slathered it all with RTV and now waiting for it all to dry. Sounds like all with be fine.

 

[craigvince]

From what I've heard, don't pull the pop rivet until the shaft snaps. Just compress it enough to hold it in place, then punch the shaft out the back. That'll leave more "meat" for the tubing to push onto.

However...I didn't do that. I pulled the things until they snapped just like any other pop rivet. I punched out the shaft then pushed tubing onto 'em and RTV'd around 'em. Worked. It has been 950+ hours of flying and no static issues. I've passed IFR checks twice so far. As cheesy as it may seem to do it the "stock" way, it's hard to debate that it works and Van's pop rivet static ports don't produce as much error as other approaches have reportedly produced.

How do I "punch" the mandrel? I pulled until they snapped, but now need them hollow. I tried a small drill, but that didn't work (snapped the bit).

 

[Rivethead]

If your tail is off reach in with a bucking bar and set it right at the shank of the rivet and against the skin. With a ball peen hamer tap on the pin (mine broke off long) then have a helper hold your drift set against the pin (I used a duck tape cradle to hold my drift) and with the bucking bar still in place tap the pin the rest of the way out. If your tail isn't off someone should go inside the tail to hold the bucking bar. I also used 3/16ths ID vinyl tubing and some small automotive hose clamps. Not the screw type the kind you squeeze to install with pliers.

 

[Rivethead]

Also I used a Nylon 1/4" barbed T fitting to join my tubing. Heated the tubing in boiling water and put a drop of dirty slut olive oil on the barbs, pushed real hard and got a very nice fit.

 

[craigvince]

I've already squeezed the rivets in fully, which broke off the pins. Therefore, I have nothing to hit with a hammer ???

 

[Ironflight]

I had the exact same problem. I believe that I pulled the nail out of a similar rivet, and used it as a punch to drive out the broken shank (outside to inside). Had a devil of a time.

Then I asked on a forum how to do it, and the answer was "The instructions say NOT to pull the rivet - pop the mandrel out and proseal the rivet head into the fuselage....that also leaves a nice tail to glue the tubing onto..." Of course! Read the instructions, what a novel idea....my way did work however!

Paul

 

[Rivethead]

I didn't buy the kit so no instructions. So anyway a drift is a punch with a plain flat tip instead of a point as in a center punch. The pin snaped and is in there you can still push it through it takes almost no effort at all. I like my way better than Vans.

 

[craigvince]

Done!

I went to my local Harbor Freight Aviation Tool Department and bought a set of punches. You're right, it popped right through.
Thanks again everybody!