Using structural blind rivets

[jmjula]

The six rivets that attach the center two baggage ribs to F-706 are a real treat. I had 5 out of 6 tip when I originally set them, and two of which I decided needed replacing once I got the fuse is right side up. Well, the replacements were worse, so now it seems like a blind rivets are the way to go. Does any one have a part number for a 1/8" structural blind rivet? Does Van's carry them? Would an LP4-3s be good enough to replace 2 out of 3 on one rib?

Thanks,
James

 

[lrfrey]

Yep, I have used them as well. Be aware though, because of the material they are made of and the long full mandrel they are real bears to drill out. I recomend you don't use 'em where you think you may want to remove the rivet later.

Larry

 

[jmjula]

Thanks. Luckily Van's carries them in a -2, so with all luck I will pick them up this afternoon and be making progress again.

 

[alpinelakespilot2000]

The six rivets that attach the center two baggage ribs to F-706 are a real treat. I had 5 out of 6 tip when I originally set them, and two of which I decided needed replacing once I got the fuse is right side up. Well, the replacements were worse, so now it seems like a blind rivets are the way to go.

Although this won't help anyone who is already at or beyond this point, John Siebold gave me what seems like some great advice re: these rivets. Is there any reason not to rivet the F-706 bulkhead to the baggage ribs BEFORE riveting it and the bellcrank ribs to the F-707 bulkhead? It seems that this would make riveting the baggage ribs to 706 (of which there are 6) a no-brainer, and would only leave the one bellcrank rib to F-707 intersection difficult to rivet--at that point 1 CherryMax could be used if necessary.

Any thoughts from those who have gone before? Thanks.