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Upper intersection fairings

cjensen

cjensen

Well Known Member
I started fitting my RV Bit's upper intersection fairings this weekend...didn't get too far because I didn't find anything about how to attach them. I know the lower one's are to be integral to the wheel pant, but how are the upper's supposed to be attached? Do I have to take the floor out of the cabin to put plate nuts in? :confused:
 
The only thing about rivnuts is that if they ever get loose, they will start to spin and you will have to cut the screw off to get it out...those things have caused many to lose their religion!!
 
I forgot to say that I put in some nuplates, One in the bottom of the cowl and one in the floorboard. I may add another one on the sidewall before I paint.
 
You can get rivnuts with a key on it so it doesn't spin. You notch the hole with a small file to fit the key into. Works good.
 
rivnuts for attaching intersection fairings?

It has been suggested above. Have never used rivnuts, but what I see is that they don't fit flush to the surface so the fairing would not fit tight against the surface. Or am I missing something here.

Was resigned to install a few nutplates to attach the intersection fairings but if there is a simpler way......

Jim
RV9A
 
Special Tip!

Brantel said:
The only thing about rivnuts is that if they ever get loose, they will start to spin and you will have to cut the screw off to get it out...those things have caused many to lose their religion!!
Click to expand...

Clean the area that will be under the Rivnut's head.
Make sure its really clean. Then put a little bit of higher strength Loctite just under the rivnut head just before you pull/set it. it works great after curing.:cool:
 
Rivnut spinning

I just installed my upper faiings and used a bit of JB weld around the rivnut before pulling. Works great. (let it cure for a day before putting screw in
 
They are made for flush mount also. Though you need to counter sink the metal or dimple it. But it sounds like you came up wit a remidy.
 
Considering that the upper intersection fairing requires fewer inspection/removal, rivnuts may work just as well but putting a bit of extra work and adding nut plates will assure long lasting way of doing this. In reality, it is not all that much work to remove the seat floor when you consider how worse it could be if the other method gives up.
 
Sorry to bring an old thread back. I'm curious what Chad ended up going with. I have an "A" and just fitted the Van's intersection fairings last night. Ish. Looks like one attach point is between the main spars. No way I can get in there to put a nutplate in.

Wouldn't mind seeing some pictures from other "A" people.

Also, wouldn't mind leaving the hangar key under the mat and coming in a day or so later to find out that a bunch of VAFers stopped over to do this for me. :D
 
I used rivnuts on my 9A. Turned a long painful 2 man job into a one hour one man job. Spinning rivnuts not a problem especially when you use the keyed ones. They don't need to be flush. The fairing covers all that without issue.

Steve Johnson
RV-9A
2400 hours of build
175 hours on the Hobbs
 
Bob,

This is what I did. These are RV-bits intersection fairings, so I'm not sure how the Vans ones compare in size.

The forward attach point clears the main gear weldment, and the aft attach point is just behind the the center box rivet line. Both are very accessable to install platenuts, although it was a two person job to get them riveted.



When the time comes to mate the wings, I'll install a platenut in the wing fairing at about this location.
201203051021_80_3_m.jpg
 
Bob,

If the -7A is anything like the -10, there is a way to mount a nutplate between the main spar. Use your nutplate jig to drill all 3 holes from the outside, then starting from above the spar thread a wire through the center hole. I used a piece of welding wire, but a coat hanger will probably work also. Drop a nutplate over the wire from above. It will now be in approximately the correct position. Use a magnet from below to move the nutplate in final position, cleco one of the rivet holes, use a pull rivet to anchor the other rivet hole, remove the cleco and rivet the second leg of the nutplate. Takes a bit of fiddling, but it can be done.

Jim Berry
RV10
 
Nutplates for intersection fairings

Some have put the nutplates on the bottom or outside of the fuselage
Skin. The intersection fairing gives plenty of depth to work with.
RV9A Bill
 
Since the forward fuselage skin is pretty thick, I just drilled and tapped threaded holes for a #6 screw. So far good, as in the screws haven't backed out. Other attach holes on the wing fairing got nutplates.

I figured I'd just drill out the tapped holes for nutplates when the threads strip out, which hasn't happened over the past year of service on my -7A.

Mike
 
Bob,

I used rivnuts for the fairings. Worked great, just be sure you get them squeezed tight (but don't break the threads) and they'll work fine.
 
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