What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Upper forward fuselage skin to longerons - RV6

blaplante

Well Known Member
Well, here is a conundrum. RV6 build I'm helping with. Kit has bounced around. Builder A finished the fuselage including installing the top front fuselage skin (slider) to the airframe.

Builder B decided it would be a lot easier to install avionics with the skin off. So proceeded to drill out the rivets. And did not do a good job of it, especially on the longerons. Pretty much every hole along the longeron (so the first 2+ feet from the firewall) is oversized. A '4' (1/8") rivet is way loose in those holes.

Builder C now owns it.

The front top skin will be replaced.

Mothership has advised the builder to not use 1097 rivets, and not use #5 rivets. I think there wasn't a clear communication of the problem. And of course the last option was to replace the longerons. A big job. Frankly better to find a replacement fuselage IMO. Being as this is at the upper engine mount (and equally bad on both sides) this is a real ouch.

My thoughts:
(A) Review of https://www.vansaircraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/MIL-R-47196A_MI.pdf says the edge distance is OK, if the #5 rivets are NOT countersunk. So use universal head #5 rivets... bore the holes out to 5/32 and go. OK will look odd and bit 'ugly' but compared to a longeron swap....

(B) For the not so bad holes - there are the CherryMax oversized rivets (0.140") - so could even use the existing countersunk holes. Not sure how many holes will look good at 0.140".

(C) And lastly another brainstorm: adding a 0.050" shim strip between the forward top skin and the side skin. Why? Because then the top skin can be dimpled, and the 0.050 shim can be machine countersunk. So then no further dimpling or countersinking into the side skin and the longeron. Hence... could actually use #5 flush rivets, and minimize the ugly factor.

(C2) Using a shim strip could be done in conjunction with drilling new holes. The plans call for 1.25" rivet spacing on most of the length and per the MIL doc above, the acceptable inter-rivet spacing is half of that. Could install new #4 rivets on most of the length. The new top skin will hide the old holes. Unfortunately the rivets are close spaced at the engine mount and so another solution needs to happen there (about 4" at the firewall).

(D) And deep into the engineering ditch... splice or doubler on the longeron somewhere. Per https://www.faa.gov/documentlibrary/media/advisory_circular/ac_43.13-1b_w-chg1.pdf page 175 although the details on how to do are beyond me.
 
Last edited:
Is the edge distance (actually hole to hole distance) such that you can add 1/8” rivets between the existing rivets?

Alternately, can you fatten (pre-squeeze) long 1/8” rivets to fill the holes, then set those rivets?
 
Is the edge distance (actually hole to hole distance) such that you can add 1/8” rivets between the existing rivets?

Alternately, can you fatten (pre-squeeze) long 1/8” rivets to fill the holes, then set those rivets?

Per my C2 section above ... the hole to hole distance is OK to add (interleave) new holes further aft. But NOT in the forward 4" or so.

The pre squeeze idea may work on a few of the holes. I haven't measured the exact oversize amount --- but to give some idea a 1/8" pin punch sits at about a 30 degree down angle in an average hole... and those holes include the .063" thick longeron.
 
I have machined a few custom rivets for oversize holes. Get some long #5 rivets (so you have enough length to chuck up) and machine down the diameter and recut the head to #4 size. Gives you a between size 1097 type rivet. Works better than trying to fatten a long #4. Not sure if a row of these at the front end of the longeron would be acceptable, just another possibility to consider.

Stewart Willoughby, 6 final assembly
 
Gosh, this sounds like a bit of an issue and I don't envy you.

First off, I don't believe splicing in a new section of longeron is going to be a good solution as it comes with a whole world of other issues that will make life very difficult for you.

The rivet pitch in that first 4" is pretty tight so as you indicate there is no room to add more rivets in this section however I'm a little surprised that Vans have said not to go to 5/32" rivets - did they provide thoughts on why this was unacceptable? I can only think that it might deform the longeron when you squeeze them and therefore risk cracking from the holes, weakening the longeron in a critical area.

Have you considered countersunk screws for that first 4"? Maybe some 5/32" NAS screws with metal-lock nuts? Perhaps another discussion with Vans on whether this might be a suitable solution is in order. I would dimple the top skin and maybe look at adding that shim you refer to underneath to avoid having to machine countersink into the longeron any more than necessary. If you make that shim reasonably long... say, 6 to 8", you wouldn't have a bulge at the firewall end.


Cheers,
 
Gosh, this sounds like a bit of an issue and I don't envy you.

First off, I don't believe splicing in a new section of longeron is going to be a good solution as it comes with a whole world of other issues that will make life very difficult for you.

The rivet pitch in that first 4" is pretty tight so as you indicate there is no room to add more rivets in this section however I'm a little surprised that Vans have said not to go to 5/32" rivets - did they provide thoughts on why this was unacceptable? I can only think that it might deform the longeron when you squeeze them and therefore risk cracking from the holes, weakening the longeron in a critical area.

Have you considered countersunk screws for that first 4"? Maybe some 5/32" NAS screws with metal-lock nuts? Perhaps another discussion with Vans on whether this might be a suitable solution is in order. I would dimple the top skin and maybe look at adding that shim you refer to underneath to avoid having to machine countersink into the longeron any more than necessary. If you make that shim reasonably long... say, 6 to 8", you wouldn't have a bulge at the firewall end.


Cheers,

I think if the shim is installed we'd run it the full length of the upper forward skin. One nice side effect is it becomes something of a doubler as well.

I agree the longeron splice sounds awful. I also think it would be best to not splice it forward of the main spar. The baggage area is probably the first decent location to do a splice.
 
another update

I thought I remembered seeing something different in an original RV3:
Drawing 21 R6
shows a similar 3/4 x 3/4 6061 upper longeron.
And similar #4 rivets holding the side skin to it.

BUT - the engine mount bracket is BOLTED to the longeron with 4 AN3-4 bolts (on the top side). So on that design there are 3/16" holes in the longeron at the firewall end.

Adding to my thinking that going up to #5 rivet isn't unreasonable.
But I'm no structural engineer.
 
Last edited:
Have you thought about using NAS1241AD4 rivets?

Their shank diameter is 0.142 inches, with the same head diameter as the MS20426AD4 rivet. They are expensive, but may be worth it in this case.
 
Back
Top