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Typically Coolest cylinder?

Radioflyer

Well Known Member
I’ve been noticing that my number one cylinder is always my coolest cylinder. Maybe 50 degrees or more cooler than the other three which run pretty close to each other at normal temps. My O-360 cowling and engine installations are stock per plans. 2 blade prop. Is this observation typical for RV6/6As.
 
Yes. You can put a small “deflector” on the inlet ramp against the cylinder to reduce cooling to that cylinder. Not at the hangar for a pic but I’m sure someone has one.
 
I’ve been noticing that my number one cylinder is always my coolest cylinder. Maybe 50 degrees or more cooler than the other three which run pretty close to each other at normal temps. My O-360 cowling and engine installations are stock per plans. 2 blade prop. Is this observation typical for RV6/6As.
My #1 and #2 are the hottest in climb and the coolest in cruise. With that deflector, will they now run even hotter in climb?

Tim
 
You can put a piece of aluminum tape on the front of the cylinder fins and add more/less until you get the temp right and then make a corresponding deflector.
 
My #1 and #2 are the hottest in climb and the coolest in cruise. With that deflector, will they now run even hotter in climb?

Tim
Definitely take time to confirm the cylinder displayed is the cylinder you think it is.. use a heat gun or even just pop the CHT out and hold it in your hand to confirm. Not the first time I’ve seen them labeled wrong
 
I’ve been noticing that my number one cylinder is always my coolest cylinder. Maybe 50 degrees or more cooler than the other three which run pretty close to each other at normal temps. My O-360 cowling and engine installations are stock per plans. 2 blade prop. Is this observation typical for RV6/6As.
Not just for RV's, But, for a lot of flat air cooled engines. Needs to be adjusted as desired.
Putting an air dam in front of 1 and 2 is almost necessary to help with evening out cooling.
Been told of rivet one in place, But, my method gives you options.
Get some 1" Velcro and and some scrap angle aluminum. Now you can adjust to any amount You want.
#1 got a 1 1/4" high and #2 got only 3/4" high. Pretty level temps now. I have a selection of different ones on a shelf.
Been that way for a couple years now. Just never got around to screwing them in place.
My luck varies FIXIT
 
The deflector on the front of the cylinder is definitely a viable option. Somebody else on another similar thread suggested putting a nut plate on the underside of the front baffles so that the deflector can be easily removed with a couple of screws for fine tuning adjustments. Not my idea, but I think it's a good one. FIXIT is describing a another quick way to address this as well.

Do you have a plenum or a standard Van's cowling with baffles resting against the cowling top? If it's the latter, the air flow past the top of the D-shaped inlet can be disrupted during climb if the transition to the top of the cowling wasn't smoothed out with fiberglass. That may account for the temperature differences between climb and cruise. If yours just abruptly dumps air in there, do a search for how this should be done, or review Van's plans. It can make a big difference. One of the smarter engineers here can chime in about pressure drop, energy loss, delta P and all that. My overly simplistic explanation is that the air flowing into the upper portion of the engine needs to flow smoothly or it will adversely affect cooling.
 
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