Trailing edge rivets (and other tight places)

[Sig600]

Can someone tell me how they squeezed the last rivets in the trailing edge of the elevator trim tab and ailerons? Or bucked them? I can't figure out how to get anything in the thin space available. Someone recommended using the narrow end of a crow bar to buck, but I think it'll have to long of a moment arm to form a decent head, and just bounce off.

 

[WenEng]

AT633 Bucking Bar worked wonders on my -6A tight spots.

It has the side clearance to fit into the aileron rib and it has an sloped bottom and flat top for bucking.

 

[Sig600]

Perfect, know where I can get one? Google shopping, Avery and AC Spruce are all no-joy.

 

[WenEng]

http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,4669.html

This place sells used bars. Great deals for different kinds. I think their part number is 15039 but it looks a little different than mine. Mine is 1 inch wide handle, 5 inches long, 2 1/2 inches wide bucking head and each side extends 3/4 inch from the handle. Here's mine. Google AT633 bucking bar.

 

[WenEng]

I guess 633 bucking bar is the best google..

This one looks more like mine.
http://www.spenro.com/bucking-r633-p-574.html
Honestly, you can use an ax head and if you have the part on a flat work table you can put a long screw driver under the ax head and leverage it up into position to buck. But, its always nice to have the right tool. You would be surprised how many times builders improvise. I once used the corner of my 3/16 backing plate and with hand pressure pulling it up against the rivet it set very nicely.

 

[Caummisar]

Squeeze 'em

I just did this on my RV-7A last Sunday. I used a TATCO no-hole yoke on an AVERY squeezer. I had no problem squeezing the last trailing edge rivets on both sides. Squeeze 'em; don't buck 'em. More control for pretty rivets.

 

[Pmerems]

Take a look at this approach

http://www.experimentalaero.com/Builders Tips.htm

 

[mikehoover]

You can always pop rivet those tight places.

 

[pmccoy]

Crow Bar

Here is another option for those tight spots.

In this photo, the part is sitting on top of my back rivet plate (below white paper). I then used a crow bar and shot the rivet gun just outside of the part on the crow bar. This worked great for me.

 

[RV7Ron]

Pop rivet 'em, then use 'filler' (I use West Systems) in the hole later if you dont like the look and want to hide them. Nobody will every know. I just dont see the point of trying to use solid rivets there, but thats just me.

 

[larrynew]

Sixty degree rivet set works for me.

 

[RVNineA]

Here is another option for those tight spots.

In this photo, the part is sitting on top of my back rivet plate (below white paper). I then used a crow bar and shot the rivet gun just outside of the part on the crow bar. This worked great for me.

That's how I do it also (except I use a cold chisel), works very well.

What's the paper on the backrivet plate for?

John

 

[rubber314chicken]

That's how I do it also (except I use a cold chisel), works very well.

What's the paper on the backrivet plate for?

John

I believe its to help prevent any scratching that might occur from the part being dragged across the plate.

 

[Sig600]

Thanks guys!

pmccoy that's what I was looking for.

They're currently pop riveted, but it not being correct is driving me crazy.