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Torx Fasteners

M

Maury

Active Member
I found a place that has Torx fastneners for the fuel tank. They cost $14.00 for 100 and are stainless. I'll let you know if I wasted my money or not. The web site is www.microfastners.com. They come in the 100 degree head. Should be better than phillips head.
Rick
 
Been there, done that ...

I did exactly that. In fact I'm using #6 and #8 Torx everywhere an AN screw is called out.
On the interior, I'm using TorxPlus pan head screws from McMaster Carr. You need to get the TorxPlus drivers of course. MMC doesn't sell 'regular' torx screws anymore (some difficulty with patents). I like the TorxPlus heads better anyway. I hope MicroFasteners starts making 100 degree TorxPlus fasteners one of these days.
This has been discussed before either on this site or the Matroncs list (maybe both).
 
Just got my fastners from micro fasteners. Great stuff and fairly cheap. They are 100* torx. I just ordered 200 more of the #8 and 200 of the #6.
Rick
 
DGlaeser said:
I did exactly that. In fact I'm using #6 and #8 Torx everywhere an AN screw is called out.
Click to expand...
While I did not use Torx screws I did use cap screws as the Allan wrenchs are more common.

Pan head screws were used under the seat cushion.

Regardless of what type of screws you use, I highly suggest you get one of these flex drives for your drill:
flexible-extension-shaft-FBX-0011.jpg


Northern Tool has them for around $10 but I couldn't find them on their site.
 
Is the structural strength of the stainless screws great enough? The structural strength of the AN hardware that Van's calls for is higher than the stainless.
 
Yeah, they're strong enough

Norman CYYJ said:
Is the structural strength of the stainless screws great enough? The structural strength of the AN hardware that Van's calls for is higher than the stainless.
Click to expand...
This was hashed out on the Matronics list about a year ago. The SS screws are plenty strong.
 
I do have a flex shaft. It helps in deburring. I got mine at Home Depo or Lowes, can't remember which one. They both sell them for around $10.00.
Rick
Emp done, left wing in the works.
 
I have a lot of these on my airplane too, but was disappointed to hear my painter say that the paint will not stick very well to the stainless. He recommended swapping them out for regular cad-plated philips prior to painting. I've got a few months to decide -- anyone had problems?

I also wonder if there might be issues from the paint filling up the inside of the torx "well".
 
Torx and paint

Paul Eastham said:
I have a lot of these on my airplane too, but was disappointed to hear my painter say that the paint will not stick very well to the stainless. He recommended swapping them out for regular cad-plated philips prior to painting. I've got a few months to decide -- anyone had problems?

I also wonder if there might be issues from the paint filling up the inside of the torx "well".
Click to expand...

Yes, the Torx screws will be nearly impossible to get out after painting. The "fit" of the Torx driver into the head of the screw is rather tight. I may be stating the obvious here, but I only painted screws that were not going to be routinely removed like wingtips and fuel tanks. The screws in fairings, inspection plates, and the like are bare stainless.

John Clark
RV8 N18U "Sunshine"
KSBA
 
Strength aside, another factor you might look at is size. The #8 countersunk screws from Microfasteners are just a little larger diameter (at the head) then the An507 screws. I don't have any here at home or I would mic them and post the numbers, but IIRC it is in the 20 thous range. This is enough to make a difference in the fit in the tank dimples/ countersinks.

Like some others, I use them for tips and fairings but stuck with the ANs for the tanks.
 
torx

Used the screws from Microfasteners 0n tips and covers, real nice. Quizzed Vans about the tank screws though, and the answer was "not recommended". Seems Vans wants the AN callout adhered to in this application. My AI didn't like the idea either.

2 cents.....Chris
 
I'll have to ask my tech inspector about the screws. Here are my thoughts on the SS screws. The torxs are easier to get in and out. Stainless won't corrode so it's easier to get out at a much later date. I don't expect to remove these, except for painting, so maybe the best thing would be to use them as consumables for frequent in and out during building then replacing them with AN hardware on the final assembly. Thanks for the input gents. You have giving me food for thought.
Rick
 
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