Van's Air Force
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Tire inflation
- Thread starter djc527
- Start date
My 6A had access holes with snap in plugs. I used a valve stem extender (like they use on trucks with dual wheels) that screwed over the valve stem only when airing up. I marked the bottom of the wheel rim as a indicator when the valve stem was lined up with the hole.
It was much easier than pulling the fairings.
It was much easier than pulling the fairings.
"Aircraft Extras" has an extender they sell that I use on my -7A. Got mine within a few days of ordering and it works as advertised
erich
erich
Tire Inflation without removing wheel pant
All RV10 drivers and builders: This thread hasn't been updated in a while and was wondering if any of the RV-10 folks have any slick new ideas to tackle the tire inflation problem. Nearly all the comments to date from the searches I've done are from others with RV's (6,7,8...) that probably have a different geometry. On the 10 (at least mine) the main gear tire stems are not readily accessible especially with the "custom" wheel pant support that many are using and the odd angle that the stem protrudes from the wheel rim. I purchased right angle stem extensions to fix this only to find that there is interference between the stem extension and the above mentioned pant support. I was planning to drill a 1.5" access hole and use a hole cover plug for "easy" access. Now I'm not sure this will work. Are we resigned to removing the front pant covers each time we need to inflate the tires or does someone have a better idea???
All RV10 drivers and builders: This thread hasn't been updated in a while and was wondering if any of the RV-10 folks have any slick new ideas to tackle the tire inflation problem. Nearly all the comments to date from the searches I've done are from others with RV's (6,7,8...) that probably have a different geometry. On the 10 (at least mine) the main gear tire stems are not readily accessible especially with the "custom" wheel pant support that many are using and the odd angle that the stem protrudes from the wheel rim. I purchased right angle stem extensions to fix this only to find that there is interference between the stem extension and the above mentioned pant support. I was planning to drill a 1.5" access hole and use a hole cover plug for "easy" access. Now I'm not sure this will work. Are we resigned to removing the front pant covers each time we need to inflate the tires or does someone have a better idea???
dmaib
Well Known Member
Bill, I too acquired a couple of 1.5 inch hole covers with the intent of opening a hole in the wheel pant. I have not done it, and now I don't think I will. I am finding that removing the front half of the wheel pant is not as bad a chore as I thought it would be. I also like taking the opportunity to take a good look at the wheel and brake assembly. Of course, I don't seem to be having the leak problems that some have. I have had the covers off twice in 100 hours and had no appreciable loss of pressure either time. Stock Van's wheels, tires, and tubes.
johngoodman
Well Known Member
I know I'm opening a can of worms here, but why have wheel pants at all? My assumptions on the speed difference only come from postings I have read over the past 3 or 4 years, but here goes.
My understanding is that folks are typically finding a 15 knot increase in speed between no pants and fairings, and finished. Several postings have suggested that the leg fairings are the majority of the increase - perhaps 10 knots. That leaves 5 (maybe 7 in a stretch) knots for the wheel pants. If you look at the wheels without the pants, they each have a pretty ugly wheel pant mount that sure looks like a lot of drag. I have to assume that the people who published the numbers had them. If you fair the legs, and clean up the wheels (remove the mounting hardware), and add hubcaps, I would think you'd be awfully close to neutral.
Now my real prejudice comes out - the pants are huge and ugly. They look like you landed in a watermelon patch. They are too large when gauging proportions from a distance. It reminds me of a honey bee coming back to the hive with legs covered with nectar and pollen.
They are expensive to replace, take a lot of man hours, and fill up with dirt and grass. If you do any unpaved strips, you sure to break one eventually. My personal observations from asking individuals what they think, is that male pilots love them and think they make it look fast and sleek. Non-pilots and females tend to be neutral or agree with me. They're too big.
Ready for the flameback,
John
My understanding is that folks are typically finding a 15 knot increase in speed between no pants and fairings, and finished. Several postings have suggested that the leg fairings are the majority of the increase - perhaps 10 knots. That leaves 5 (maybe 7 in a stretch) knots for the wheel pants. If you look at the wheels without the pants, they each have a pretty ugly wheel pant mount that sure looks like a lot of drag. I have to assume that the people who published the numbers had them. If you fair the legs, and clean up the wheels (remove the mounting hardware), and add hubcaps, I would think you'd be awfully close to neutral.
Now my real prejudice comes out - the pants are huge and ugly. They look like you landed in a watermelon patch. They are too large when gauging proportions from a distance. It reminds me of a honey bee coming back to the hive with legs covered with nectar and pollen.
They are expensive to replace, take a lot of man hours, and fill up with dirt and grass. If you do any unpaved strips, you sure to break one eventually. My personal observations from asking individuals what they think, is that male pilots love them and think they make it look fast and sleek. Non-pilots and females tend to be neutral or agree with me. They're too big.
Ready for the flameback,
John
For some fresh data on wheel pant drag John, consider that the upgrade from the old non-pressure-recovery pants to the new pressure-recovery design on Lousie's -6 gave us an increase of about 6 knots. I'm pretty sure the old pants were better than bare wheels/brakes!
paul
paul
Tire issues
I had problems with my tires deflating. Turned out that both valve cores were loose and that one was damaged. Replaced and tightened and pressure is maintained much better now. Still lose air very gradually - but the tires now only need air once every 3 months or so rather than every few weeks.
cheers,
Ron
RV-10 VH-XRM in Oz
I had problems with my tires deflating. Turned out that both valve cores were loose and that one was damaged. Replaced and tightened and pressure is maintained much better now. Still lose air very gradually - but the tires now only need air once every 3 months or so rather than every few weeks.
cheers,
Ron
RV-10 VH-XRM in Oz
Ron
what is the exact name of the tubes and/or order number.
Cheers
Mike
what is the exact name of the tubes and/or order number.
Cheers
Mike
