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Tip Up Strut Issue

Gsuit

Well Known Member
I'm frustrated. I spent a lot of time, sweat, and tears getting my fwd / aft canopy edges a perfect 1/32" gap. Then I installed the struts and the gap is now a perfect 1/4"!!

Is this normal? I'm hoping it's because I don't have the forward deck skin on right now (to keep from inadvertantly bending the canopy frame skin when I raise the canopy.) Hopefully the subpanel is flexing that much...

Anyone have this same issue? I was expecting some forward movement - but this is unsightly!!! :confused:
 
Yes this is somewhat normal... mine's not the prettiest either. Build on! No one can see it when you're going 200 mph (unless you're in formation, I guess).
 
Ditto,

I know it it very frustrating. The forward skin and the addition supports on the inside stiffens the canopy up significantly. At least try to clecko everthing into place before you make serius changes, with as much cleckos as possible! Then when you rivet it will be close, but still not perfect.

Regards
Rudi
 
Then dont forget to open the canopy and hook the canopy skin on the fwd skin so it gets a nice crease in it. Dont ask. EJ
 
One more suggestiong...

Until the forward skin is riveted down, don't try to do final alignment on the latch hooks. One more thing that I learned the hard way.

Kent
 
Your not alone

The gas springs force the canopy frame (riveted or not, forward skin riveted or not) forward. In addition they force the frame outward as well. Keep building as everyone has suggested and check the fit once the forward skin in riveted in place.

When messing with the canopy with the forward top skin clecoed in place make sure you don't install all the clecos because the canopy top skin will hit them and damage will occur.

In addition as many have noted as the canopy swings open, the forward edge of the canopy top skin may catch on the aft edge of the forward top skin so be very careful opening the canopy unit all skins are riveted in place.

Paul
RV-7A finishing
 
BEFORE YOU CLOSE THE CANOPY.

Before you close the canopy for the first time WITH THE FORESKIN ON, have someone, -preferably YOU- sit inside the cockpit whilst it is closed.
Then VERY slowly and gently open the canopy whilst the bloke outside looks to see if the canopy skin catches on the foreskin.
IF IT DOES YOU CAN RELEASE THE CANOPY HINGE PINS, (unclip the struts- did you know they can be snapped out at the balljoint?) and then move it aft slightly and Lift it off.

As others have said, until everything is riveted or at least cleco'd, you won't see the final result.

Additionally, I had the frame fitting perfectly and then found, the squeezing of the rivets distorted the frame. That occured with the joins in the side rails and the joins in the canopy roll frame.
In particular, the canopy roll frame moved out 1/4" after riveting the splice at the top centre. So I drilled out all rivets bar one which I left as a pivot. I then tied a piece of cord across the lower edges, pulled the frame inwards until it was 1/4" too narrow on the canopy rails and riveted it. When I undid the cord the frame sprung out to be a perfect fit.
It is the most frustrating part.
If it gets too much the best solution is a beer and a long look and think from 10' away.
Pete.
 
fodrv7 said:
Before you close the canopy for the first time WITH THE FORESKIN ON,

Yikes!! :eek: Pete...
Since I was a newborn I don't think mine has been removable. :D

Seriously guys - thanks for all the great advice.
 
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