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Tip-up canopy reinforcement timeline

Robert M

Robert M

Well Known Member
Hi gagn!

I've goten to the point where I'm seeing a couple of things on the drawings but there's no mention in the instructions as to WHEN this needs to be done.

The first "things" are the tip-up canopy skin reinforcements. These are the skin reinforment parts that go up under the canopy forward skin on the tip-up canopy. I have the instructions for them but I don't have anything that says "do this now" and nothing on the drawings. I'm to the stage that I want to rivet the canopy forward skin. I'm guessing that now would be a good time but I'm afraid that later in the instructions I'll come across "now that the engine has been run for the first time, you should go back and rivet on the canopy skin reinforcements."

The other issue that I have is the lift cylinders for the canopy. I have them, I see them on the drawings but I can't find anything in the instructions to say - "do this now".

Robert
 
Last edited:
Robert,

You'll want to rivet the canopy fwd skin to the frame before riveting the reinforcements, as the reinforcements block access to buck the skin-frame rivets. I installed the reinforcements shortly after riveting the skin, and have not had any difficulty because of it. (My panel is complete and FWF is nearly so.)

Same with the lift struts; I fit the frame to the fuse and installed the struts before fitting and cutting the bubble, since the struts will try to push the canopy frame forward. If you cut first, and added the struts later, it might widen the gap between the canopy and rear window.
 
jwyatt said:
Robert,

You'll want to rivet the canopy fwd skin to the frame before riveting the reinforcements, as the reinforcements block access to buck the skin-frame rivets. I installed the reinforcements shortly after riveting the skin, and have not had any difficulty because of it. (My panel is complete and FWF is nearly so.)

Same with the lift struts; I fit the frame to the fuse and installed the struts before fitting and cutting the bubble, since the struts will try to push the canopy frame forward. If you cut first, and added the struts later, it might widen the gap between the canopy and rear window.
Click to expand...

Perfect! Just the information I was looking for.
 
But we recommend that you ...

... install the canopy frame "snubbers" before you install the gas struts. They keep the canopy frame from being pulled forward and out of alignment when the struts exert their pulling force. There are many pics of such installations available. Putting in the snubbers saved my butt in terms of canopy alignment.
 
Not shown on Vans drawings at all ...

...but they are important. Every tip-up builder I know who didn't use them ended up with canopy alignment problems. They're not difficult and not expensive .... it's essentially a small piece of 1/8" x 3/4 x 3/4 angle riveted to to the top longeron, with a 5/16" or 3/8" short bolt installed in it. The bolt head faces aft and butts against the canopy frame to keep it from moving forward when pulled by the struts. send me your email address in a PM and I'll send you a pic or two.
 
I found the snubbers pictures. Thanks, I had never seen them before.

My proposed timeline sequence is as follows;
1. Fit, bevel, de-burr and dimple C-702 and C-603 and underlying structures.
2. Rivet C-702 to WD-716.
3. Fill gaps between C-702 and aft tube of WD-716 with epoxy/flox.
4. Install both C-725 Ball stud fwd mounts.
5. Prime underside of C-702.
6. Prime and install three supports to underside of C-702.
7. Install snubbers.
8. Install both C-728 aft Ball stud mounts.
9. Install both struts.

I have noticed that some have notched the F-774 aft top skin where it meets the C-603 Canopy side skin. Good idea?

Comments/suggestions?
 
It may be obvious, but make sure you final-adjust the snubbers tight up against the fwd canopy frame before you install the gas struts.
Also, where you indicate "prime" in steps 4 and 5, I finish painted. I also finish painted the 3 reinforcement pieces before I riveted them in place. Getting a good finish paint job thru and around the lightening holes in the reinforcements would be very difficult.
 
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