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Tip-up Canopy Rear Frame Doubler

tx_jayhawk

Well Known Member
It appears that in drilling the rear canopy bow splice plate that you end up with little-to-no edge distance between some of the rivet holes and the F-631 tooling holes.

Outside of moving the tip-up handle forward by the thickness of the material...any reason why a duplicate doubler cannot be placed on the front side of the forward bow to match the splice plate? It seems this would be a sturdier design anyway.

Seems trivial, but I'm hoping somehow can confirm there isn't any other problems.

Thanks,
Scott
7A Finishing
 
I'm not at my airplane right now but I dont see why you can't do that. Have you already drilled the holes? If I recall, I simply moved (or didnt use?) the offending rivets. The canopy handle isn't that long but I think an .063 doubler should be OK if that's what you want to do.

Happy New Year,
Scott
 
If you would feel better it shouldn't cause you any problems but I don't think it is necessary. Even with a couple of holes having reduced edge distance it will still be stronger than what is on hundreds of RV-6's and 6A's.

They used a splice plate with no flange at the bottom attaching to the two rib flanges. This was improved when the canopy design was tweeked for the RV-7 and 9.
 
I replaced my doubler

I too found there was an edge distance a problem prior to drilling the f-631 but I already drilled the doubler. So I made a new doubler and relocated the offending holes.

It turns out that when fitting the F-631's to the canopy glass you really can't clamp everything into position and use the F-631 as a drill guide. So pre-drilling the doubler doesn't really work. However if you clamp everything into position (F-631's to the F-631 roll frame assembly) and use your old doubler reversed on the forward side of the F-631 (as a drill guide) you can get the holes (at least 4 holes per side) in the right place. Then you can install your new doubler properly (new doubler was drilled using the old doubler reversed as a drill guide).

This may sound a little confusing but it works great.

Paul
RV-4/RV-7A (finishing kit)
 
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