tx_jayhawk
Well Known Member
OK, I know others have had this same issue, and I am requesting feedback on what might be done. I marked the location (with Sharpie) of where my hinge pin will go (blue dot). As you can see, there is little to no edge distance if I drill it there. I've obviously already drilled the ribs and hinge blocks, and the canopy frame and splice are riveted (skin just clecoed). I'm happy with the canopy skin gap where it's at (I have between 1/32 and 1/16 skin clearance). Options I am debating include:
1) Just drill it where it is at. I think I would have around 1/16" edge distance on the gooseneck.
2) Move the canopy back slightly to better center the pin. This solves the pin problem, but then I get an undesirable gap in the skin.
3) Drill out the rivets near the goosneck. Put a spacer (.050"?) between the gooseneck tab and c-channel and re-rivet. Assuming I can still align the skins ok, this should effectively pull the hinge arm back somewhat. Risk in this is I don't know what happens to the overall fit at this point (until I do it).
4) Buy new hing blocks and follow Jeff B.'s method. The way I see that method, I would also need to elongate or otherwise replace the ribs as well (the holes have to line up with the hinge blocks).
Any thoughts?
1) Just drill it where it is at. I think I would have around 1/16" edge distance on the gooseneck.
2) Move the canopy back slightly to better center the pin. This solves the pin problem, but then I get an undesirable gap in the skin.
3) Drill out the rivets near the goosneck. Put a spacer (.050"?) between the gooseneck tab and c-channel and re-rivet. Assuming I can still align the skins ok, this should effectively pull the hinge arm back somewhat. Risk in this is I don't know what happens to the overall fit at this point (until I do it).
4) Buy new hing blocks and follow Jeff B.'s method. The way I see that method, I would also need to elongate or otherwise replace the ribs as well (the holes have to line up with the hinge blocks).
Any thoughts?