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Tip-up Canopy frame rails

T

Tom T

Member
I'm currently working on the frame and have come to an issue I'm not sure of the best resolution.

When I fit the WD-725 side rails to the WD-716 frame, I have a gap between the rail ends and the 631 ribs of about 1/8". I have reviewed several builders sites and found indications this is not uncommon. There seems to be two solutions.

1. Leave a space between the 716 and 725 where the 613 join plate is rivetted. (Butt the 725s to the 631 ribs)

2. Use a spacer between the 725 and the 631. (butt the 725s to the 716)

I would be interested feedback on the pros and cons of each solution. Thanks
 
#1 was what I did.

Also, what I'd recommend would be to just butt up 725 to the rollbar pieces.. not drill just yet.. Once canopy is in place, you may need to shift 631 up and down.
 
Canopy Frame Gap

Tom,
Are you allowing for a 1/4' gap between the F-631 Canopy frame and the the Roll Bar.
See my pic.
Pete.
canopyframelg9.jpg
 
I have established the gap between the 631 ribs and the rollbar using spacers. The gap is right on 1/4". Thanks
 
Parts are too short!!!!!!!!!!

I have the exact issue.

I spoke with Van's engineering and they recommended a gap between the splice plate and rail. That is what I did. I don't like the gap, but I can live with it.

While up at Oshkosh I looked at all the RV-7/9 tip-ups I could find. All that I saw had this problem and gapped at the splice plate.

In summary the parts are too short. Van should fix this. RV-6's don't seem to have this issue.

Paul
 
I added a 1/8" spacer between my side rail and canopy roll bar. Worked out perfect.

-Jeff

FUSELAGE%20385.jpg
 
...and then how do you flatten the 631's?

My 631's have a slight twist in them. Checkoway & a couple of others have fluted them to make them lay flatter. Dan C. fluted along the outside flange curve...spaced properly for the eventual screws. http://www.rvproject.com/20030308.html

My question is this: How do you know where & how much to flute to make them flat. The plans aren't too clear about this.
I would reall like to get this right & not goof'em up too bad.

Thanks
 
Measure where the screws are going to go and mark. Flute in between these marks. As how to flute, do the 631 the same way you did the ribs in the rest of the plane to make them lie down flat on a table.
 
careful on the layout

vans distances interfere with 3 rivets per side. no biggie right? wrong either move them one way or the other or alter hole spacing. i blindly went and changed the dimensions so i had the correct number of screws but then los two rivets.no big deal right? wrong..i then drilled the rivets out only to find i should have just moved over enoughto clear thr rivet. well all's not lost, i ordered 10 rivnuts from spruce and the installer and put 6/32 rivnuts in these 4 locations. ........plan ahead here and save yourself some trouble.. looking at jeffs site really helped out on fitting the canopy for me. really fits the frame well. others spent alot more time trying to get the roll bar gap down prior to the big cut. if you do this you may trim all your error room away at the rear. this could have (and nearly did by less than an 1/8) caused the rear to be to short. my canopy was really screwed up at the rear major duck tail. kept the canopy off the frame by 4 inches. i trimmed all i could and at the last 1/16 it laid down..close on the rear. watch the front vertical trimming. because as you trim you pull the canopy fwd. which used up the rear flat. then your canopy is + the 1.75 as the plans specify. no big deal but closer than it has to be.

i fluted the outer flange btw. worked pretty well.

thanks jeff. :D
 
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Does anyone have a close shot. Shoot top down (preferably on the left side) of the junction between the 716 (frame) and 725 (side rails) and the junction between the side rail, and the aft canopy channel.

Also, the spacing issue is an interesting one. Today I plotted mine out and was pleasantly surprised. I measured the 3/8 scale very carefully on the plans to establish where the first screw should go, then marked 2 1/2" and everything worked out great.

Each screw hole was about 1/4" or so forward of a rivet in the rollbar. I went back and measured the plans again and found that was what the plans indicate.

I was feeling pretty good. Of course, then I misdrilled the top two bolt holes in the splice plate (all those lines going up or done and stupid me drilled them on the wrong line. ). I didn't check after drilling and went ahead and drilled it to the channel...thus turning a $3.50 mistake into a $69 mistake.

I sure am going to be smart at the end of all these stupid mistakes.
 
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