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Tip up canopy blues

RickWoodall

Well Known Member
Uggggh. I must be getting dumber as the build progresses. I have made great progress, watched boxes of parts turn into parts that look like an airplane, learned to rivet, countersink, fabricate parts etc. and was very happy with how it was going...BUT...this tip up canopy is brutal. I have scanned many builders sites and a few like Dan C's do help....but i apparently need one designed for pretty slow folks...cause I am almost to a complete halt. Is there a build site that anyone has that is really clear and detailed about the canopy, and frame parts coming together? Can I skip the canopy and just go open cockpit? Cant one of you engineer types build the canopy and frame, and tell me when its ready for pick up and what I owe you? Its SOOOOO slow. Words of wisdom or links to great detailed build sites would be appreciated. The prints and directions just dont cut it in this area. Open cockpit....thats the plan if production doesnt get back on track.
 
Hang in there and just keep at it. The canopy is just an exercise in perseverance. This isn't a place to kill yourself with perfection. It will fly just fine if there is a little gap here or there. Some have commented that my build log was useful (9A, Tip-up). What is the problem? If you don't find the answers with a little searching, fire away, we'll answer.
 
Dude, there's no dumber builder out there than me and I'm about done with this (7A). So it CAN be done. I've used a combination of three or four Web sites and help from friends explaining simple (to them anyway) concepts.



Slow? Heck yeah. I've been at it since February. But, then again, I'm a pay-as-you-go project so I'm in no hurry. This is an important part and I want to get it right (or as right as an idiot like me can make it).

Patience. This is one of those times when you're not building an airplane. You're building you.

What in particular can we help you with?
 
I am feeling better today, its just been a very slow and frustrating week. It took 5 tries to get the goofy little c723 wedges right, the gap between the wd 716 and the top skin (at the radius) is an issue that i dont like. The spacer blocks for fitting the f631 channel being called at 7/8 and as per Dan C, they dont really work well at that size., so i tried cutting 2 more sets at different sizes..ugggh. The f631 channels where perfect, no warp until i bent to a 90-92 degeree angle. Now i need to flute like mad to get them to lay flat and with the avery flute pliers...thats not easy. Just slow and patience doesnt seem to be my strong point lately.
Anyway, i did go to your site Scott, and am fresh today and back at it. Started this am with some part fab, so i feel like something is getting done. Just had a couple of slow days and was pretty frustrated. Back at it...and will stop grumbling for awhile....maybe. Thanks
 
F631A

After searching the site I still need some advice on how to get the F631A to lay flat. As most will say they did lay somewhat flat before I "reflanged" the flange and now I need to flute. Do you flute the inside flange also or do you just concentrate on the outer flange? This is my second set of parts because I drilled them too early and wasn't happy with the previous work that I done on them. Any takers?
 
I got the angles on the bends right, then i fluted the stuffing out of ONLY the outside edge. Very hard on the hands as it is pretty strong stuff. It took maybe 30 minutes of working but we finally got them as close to perfect as I could want. Put a good pair of welding gloves on before you flute, really keeps the hands from getting killed. Its not to bad. I am only a month or two ahead of you. Lots of fun stuff left.
 
Fluting ribs to straighten

Yes, this is a bugger to squeeze with the fluting tool.

I found trying to straighten this rib a frustating experience of trial and error. Obviously, where to flute completely depends on how the part is twisted. You have to lay the part with ribs facing down on the table, then flute where needed to pull the rib toward the table. It took more than I initially thought it would. You may well have to flute inside and out, otherwise it will just twist if you do only one side.

Think it through before squeezing (in nuclear power we called it "nuking it out" ), because you can't graciously "take back" a flute bend on a part this thick.
 
Thanks

Thanks for your advice Mike and Rick, I was able to flute just the outside flange and get the pieces pretty straight. I don't know what my problem was but I was at a standstill until I needed a little coaxing from the group. Thanks again!
 
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