Tip: Fuel Sender Ground

[Don Jones]

I wanted to make sure I had a good ground to the fuel senders, so I drilled a hole in the flange and counter-sunk it on the gasket side. Threaded the hole and screwed a #6 screw in then put a jam nut on the outside. Since the head of the screw will be covered in proseal (no gasket) during the sender install, no sealer is needed anywhere else, that way there will be no question about the quality of the ground. I plan to put a starlock under the nut, I just don't have any right now.
Simple and quick.

 

[Rick_A]

Even easier way...

I just used ring terminal on one of the mounting screws. I don't see why I would need to disconnect the ground unless I'm removing the sender (which I did a couple of times recently while troubleshooting a sender problem).

 

[flion]

Normally, the senders ground through the airframe (sender attach plate - screws - nutplates in tank - and so on) but I needed to isolate the returns for the BMA Engine Pod. Here is how I did my installation, with shoulder washers and a terminal under one of them on the sender attach plate.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

Another way to assure a good ground is to put one internal or external tooth lock washer under one of the screws on the cover and one of the 5 screws mounting the sender.
It then doesn't matter if their is sealant under all of the screw heads. the washer will dig into the screws and the sender body or cover plate, providing a low resistance path to the main airframe.