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Tip: Bumping Out Rivets

Rick of Austin

Well Known Member
After the skins are riveted if any rivet lies in the bottom of a slight depression or dent the fix is super easy. Support the shop head of the rivet with a bucking bar and lightly strike the rivet with a rubber mallet being careful to hit it square and flat with the face of the mallet.
It sure makes a difference in aesthetics if you are leaving it unpainted to have the surface around each rivet flat.
Rick
 
It may be that you're under-dimpling in the first place. When I started my empennage, my technical counselor visited my shop. He saw the kind of depressions you describe, around most of my rivets. I had seen them, too, and had managed to fix many of them the way you describe. He told me this was the most common thing he saw among new builders and that I was under-dimpling. He showed me how he did dimpling and I was surprised to learn a few things.

Using a C-frame, he hit each dimple twice with the hammer. Once to form the dimple, and a second good solid whack to really finish it. I was surprised how hard he hit it. "Beat that aluminum into submission. Don't be shy."

I have a DRDT-2 dimpler, and to use it correctly, I learned to adjust the ram downward enough so that the two dies come together solidly by the time the handle is pulled about 3/4 of the way down. This is with no material in the dimpler. When I'm dimpling, you can literally see the frame of the DRDT-2 flex from all the pressure. I hit each dimple twice, just like he did on the C-frame. I've had good results ever since, with no more depressions around the rivets. Try it on some scrap and see if you notice a difference.
 
Bruce, the bumping out I described is not to correct problems with the dimples but rather a dent or depression in the skin surrounding the rivet head from using a too light bucking bar or an unskilled helper. If you have any rivets in a dent try it, pleasant results.
Regards
Rick
 
Sorry I dont have a picture, I watched a local T-18 builder do it years ago as he was riveting. Just after driving the rivet with a gun he kept the bucking bar on the shop head of the rivet then lightly struck the manufactured head with a rubber mallet to guarantee that there was no depression of the skin around the rivet. If you lay a short straightedge across the top of a driven flush rivet you will often see the skin is not perfectly flat. I guess this was more of a problem driving -4 rivets in thin skin.
Rick
 
Over enthusiastic dimpling

It may be that you're under-dimpling in the first place. When I started my empennage, my technical counselor visited my shop. He saw the kind of depressions you describe, around most of my rivets. I had seen them, too, and had managed to fix many of them the way you describe. He told me this was the most common thing he saw among new builders and that I was under-dimpling. He showed me how he did dimpling and I was surprised to learn a few things.

Using a C-frame, he hit each dimple twice with the hammer. Once to form the dimple, and a second good solid whack to really finish it. I was surprised how hard he hit it. "Beat that aluminum into submission. Don't be shy."

I have a DRDT-2 dimpler, and to use it correctly, I learned to adjust the ram downward enough so that the two dies come together solidly by the time the handle is pulled about 3/4 of the way down. This is with no material in the dimpler. When I'm dimpling, you can literally see the frame of the DRDT-2 flex from all the pressure. I hit each dimple twice, just like he did on the C-frame. I've had good results ever since, with no more depressions around the rivets. Try it on some scrap and see if you notice a difference.

I have found that you need to fine tune the hammer strike for the thickness of skin. Too little is a problem but so is too much. I you are a bit too heavy-handed it stretches the skin and you end up with raised skin around the dimple. This is easy to do with the 020 skins. Probably harmless but it doesn't look so good. Everyone finds there own technique, but for me I get more consistent results by letting the hammer drop from a given height rather than muscling it.
 
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