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The VAF News - 3.17.2025. #6298.

DeltaRomeo

doug reeves: unfluencer
Staff member
Please excuse the early Monday push - working side job Sunday and the VAF window was shortened <g>. Replaced the 33 year old carb ($19 Amazon) on my Honda HR215SX mower Saturday, purchased new in 1992. That and stayed indoors to keep out of the dust bowl outside. Crazy Wx all over. Possible RV flight this week. <fingers crossed>.
Hope you had a nice weekend.
v/r,dr


dr
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ymc9 12
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David Paule Chute Update (RV-3B)
1. The sewn-on shoulder harness pads are very thick and I don’t know yet if I’ll get rid of them. They are comfy, though, and so far feel great.
2. The plane’s mounting points on the turtledeck above the baggage area need to be made to fit a bolt and nut and washer. I’d done that, and installed them okay, but had to install the bolt pointing up because I could get the nut into the space but not the whole bolt. No biggie.
3. I had to use the work platform I’d made years ago to do the install, laying on my back. Getting in and out was harder than it was back then, mostly because I’d forgotten the routine bends and twists, but also because the cockpit is more mature now and more things are in it.
4. The bottom outboard corners of the seat back needed trimming to clear the seat belt attachment fittings. They already cleared the plane’s mounting points. I had to rim the corners about 1/2” for this.
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Shawn's -4 re-build
…update
I am getting ready to cut the old cowling but looking at @Flyhud 's cowling, there seems to be large gaps to fill on mine. I am fairly inexperienced with making these sort of mods. I would think that forcing the old cowl (after it is cut) into a position suitable for fiberglassing the 2 together is not a good idea. I have been told that some reforming can be done with a little heat. Or do I cut way back and add many new layers of glass to get closer to the new cowl? My plane is circa 1984 so I am wondering if cowls were different, in shape, back then? Once I make some cuts, things could get easier to manipulate into place. But thought I might ask all first before I go doing something I will regret
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Shark



RV-14A
…Navy76
My plane has been flying for four years but I just got it back from the paint shop a few weeks ago. Weather has only allowed a few flight since so I don’t have many photos yet. I finally have a completed plane… for now. Cascade Customs and Design in Bend, OR painted it and I would highly recommend them . First class job! The second photo is in their shop with the canopy still masked .
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Convert electric to manual flaps
…Ralph Inkster reply
As mentioned by most posts above- the easiest & probably best option would be to change out your actuator, or update your existing actuator with a flap controller of some sort either through your EFIS, SportPlane controller, or other such.
Converting electric to manual flaps isn't as easy as changing a lever to a handle. There are dimensional differences in the torque tube that would effect flap travel. The angle & lengths of the 3 levers are different between the 2 setups, so, unless you have some parts out of another manual 6 to install in your plane, you will need to relocate & weld all 3 levers (lengthen the outboard levers to 7.5" & fabricate a new handle lever) on your old torque tube. The manual torque tube will also have to be repositioned from behind of the F605 bulkheads to in front of them. Dimensions are in the FULL version of the RV-6/A plans.
Yes it was fun having the ability to slam instant flap in when needed, but it is so much nicer to be able to feed flap & coordinate trim at the same time for smooth transitions.
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cajanwings
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erich weaver
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OFF TOPIC:
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