1: I put my jacks between the seats on the crossmember that runs behind them, as an alternative. It was easy to run them up one side of the fuselage, across the crossmember, and then terminate them in the flap motor housing (there's nothing up there to interfere). But, yeah, wires in your lap are a drag, better to have them behind you.
4: I ran my wires over the tiedown ring mount, but then I only had nav light wires. Where you notch the fairing, use 'caterpillar' edging to keep the notch from chafing your wires.
6: Some castellated nuts get torqued. Engine mount, for example. There's a torque range generally listed in the AC; be sure you know the purpose before you decide to torque or not.
13: The sticky mounts will grip like proseal if you follow the same preparation guidelines - clean (no, really clean) surface lightly scuffed and cleaned again with naptha. If using over paint or primer, the bond is only as good as the paint/primer bond. I don't recommend using them on bare aluminum because I don't know how the adhesive will react to the metal - I'd hate to find out it has a similar effect to the expanding foam used on some RV landing gear: i.e., it traps moisture and promotes corrosion. You can, however, fabricate simple tiewrap anchors that use a rivet or two and, if you are clever, even use existing rivet locations.
As far as the metal insert tiewraps; I've had mixed success. The problem with both types is that, in the smaller sizes, manufacturing tolerances mean that either might not grip sufficiently. Fortunately, since both are relatively cheap, it is easy to grip test them in place and simply toss any that fail, which you should do with all tiewraps - at installation and during inspection. You would check your adel clamps, right, so why not the tiewraps? Also, be sure they are UV resistant, especially if they may be exposed to light, even indirect. If they don't say UV resistant, then they really
are too cheap for use.
Finally (and this is a general note because I don't think I've heard it mentioned here before), don't overtighten your tiewraps. If you've seen the wraps in a computer system that has been pulled with a special tool; well, that's too tight. It's just put a stress riser in that bundle; but it works for computers because they tend not to move around as much. You want snug enough that the wires won't easily pull through but not so snug the wire insulation is visibly compressed. Nothing should be tugging your wires anyway (other than their own weight to the next anchor); if there is something, it should be supported separately.
That's a nice list he gave you. I wish I'd had a list like that before I got done ... but then, mine would probably have been longer.
Learning experience, eh?
