What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Tank Spacers

W

ww2planes

Well Known Member
I am having a problem with the T-712 tank spacers. On my first tank I followed the directions and drilled them to the spar. When it came time to rivet them to the rear tank baffle I found that I had to grind off half of my rivet puller and still had a very difficult time of getting the rivets secured. If I use the centerline method then the rivets are too close to the angle and if I center the rivets then the nutplates are too close to the angle. Has anyone had the same situation and if so what to do?
 
tank spacer rivets

I had the same problem and found out that our experience is the norm, not the exception. It's a design 'characteristic'. Fortunately I have an old pop rivet gun that I ground away to be able to pull those rivets. Even if you end up pulling them on a slight angle, they seem to work fine (don't forget the ProSeal of course :)
The other unusual thing I experienced is that the stem on those rivets doesn't always break off at the rivet head - over half of mine broke off inside the rivet gun, leaving long 'tails' sticking out of the rivets. Vans said if they don't interfere, you can leave them, but I cut them off.
 
Thanks Dennis. I had the same stem problem and solution. I went heavy on the pro-seal on these things on the first tank and I guess I will do it again. I just did not like the idea.
 
Offset the holes

I offset the holes for the tank spar more towards the web of the bracket. This gives a favorable offset for the tank side. I think 1/32 or so is what I found to be best.

Do keep in mind that 2 of the brackets face the opposite direction so they do not need to be offset. It doesn't hurt if you do because these do not get pop riveted on.

http://n376sl.com/Journal.php?id=74&cid=2
 
I haven't installed my brackets yet, but for other jobs I have made an aluminum spacer - just a short length of 3/8" rod with a small hole drilled along the length for the rivet nail. I thread the spacer on the nail then grab it with the rivet puller. Works a treat. For really close work you could grind down one side of the rod.
 
Could you clarify a bit?
Do you mean a spacer such that you are pulling the rivet from farther down the "nail"? My puller needs a decent amount of the nail inside to get a good grip ... I might have to try this, though. Thanks!

Thomas
-8 wings
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top