Tailwheel spring replacement -- need the plans

[Spindrift]

Hi all,

My A&P recommended replacement of my tailwheel spring due to the bolt holes loosening up, so I ordered a new one, painted it and sent it to him. Unfortunately, I don't have the plans readily available, and before he dives in to do the replacement, he'd like to review them. Can someone either post a picture of that section of the plans, or email a scan or close-up photo to me?

I searched for posts on the subject and found some helpful ones, but still need the plans.

bill dot inman at wwwinc.com

Thanks,

 

[Lars]

Why not replace the bolts with taper pins? There are a few threads on the subject. Then you can resuscitate your existing tail spring.

 

[Spindrift]

Too late

At this point the damage is pretty significant, plus I've already painted the new spring. Less than $100 for knowing its right is worth it to me.

 

[Spindrift]

Got it

Thanks to Bob for getting me what I needed and saving an hour plus of driving to get to where my plans are, which, unfortunately, is in the opposite direction of where the plane is at the moment.

 

[JordanGrant]

You might change your mind when you're cursing at the old tail spring trying to remove it. Those suckers are TIGHT. Even in the new tail spring, taper pins are HIGHLY recommended. They will fit super tight and prevent your new spring from having the same problem in the future.

 

[ao.frog]

I have never thought of putting in tapered pins, but it sounds like a good idea.

Can anyone post a link to where I can find them?

Thanks.

 

[vfrazier]

I wish I had a dollar for every time I've sent this to someone:

I want to pass on a little tidbit here about the bolt that holds the tailwheel spring to the tailwheel weldment. I drilled mine per Mark's instructions and found that the bolt went in too easily--this should be an interference fit (once again, my savior the big hammer should be used to put the bolt in). I wrapped a piece of scrap aluminum around the tailwheel spring and could twist it with a pair of vise-grips. Not good! If there's any play here, the bolt can eventually fail or the hole will become elongated. I have heard of failures in these bolts on RV's . Rather than taking my chances with a larger bolt and it too not being correct, I decided to fix it with a taper pin which worked out very well. Here's the recipe:

AN386-2-9A taper pin (aircraft spruce)

AN975-3 taper pin washer (aircraft spruce)

B&S #2 taper pin reamer (http://www.mscdirect.com/MSCCatLookup2.process?MSCProdID=02054021) (1/2 the price of AC$)

12" long tap handle (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45206)

The taper pin has the advantage that if the pin ever loosens up, you can just tighten up the nut and things should be snug again. The taper pin is an odd-sized Browne & Sharpe #2 taper, so don't confuse it with other -2 tapers.

I highly advise that the final hole size should be reamed with a hand-reamer .001-.002 under-size even if you don't use a taper-pin. There are too many variables with drilling to final size with a hand drill.

Originally from Bob Japundza