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Tail Cone skins - broken edges

Dgamble

Dgamble

Well Known Member
In my normal fashion, I didn't research deeply enough on the process of "breaking" the edges of the tail cone skins until I had done a couple of them wrong. Basically hat I did was use the Cleaveland tool, but held it at an angle as I pulled it along the edge. Those of you that have gone before know what this caused: a wavy, ugly bend in the edge.

As I belatedly read through some of the older forum messages, I learned two things:

1) I did it wrong
2) I'm not the only one to have done so.

So, for those who made the same mistake, I have this question: how did you (or just "did you") fix it? Will the over broken edges flatten out when riveted, or do I need to flatten them back out somehow?

For those who used the Cleaveland tool (correctly) I have this question: if I don't put any angle on the tool as I pass it along the edge, how do I know which way the bend will go?
 
Ok, so it looks like it will bend the edge down away from the roller with the edge on it, right?

I'm still not sure what to do about the "wrong" edges. Will I be able to tell if they're ok when I cleco everything together, or should I be trying to fix them now? These are the two rounded bottom skins, fortunately, so the only people that will notice if they're ugly are other RV builders.

MartySantic said:
I posted the procedure to use the tool in my blog. Jim Cone provided the information via a forum message. Had the same problem initially.

See... http://martysrv12.blogspot.com/2009/01/tailcone-assembly-continues.html

Practice on some scrap aluminum and you will quickly see which way the edge is bent.
Click to expand...
 
Dave,

The top roller is the one with the flange on the inner edge. If you look at where it contacts the lower roller you will see which way the bend will be.
Use some scrap of the same thickness to practice with. When you break the edges on the aircraft sheet, start with a low setting and increase the break in steps. Don't twist the tool as you draw it toward you and try to keep the flange in contact with edge of the sheet. The proper break should be barely visible in most cases, two or three degrees, however the top rear of the Tail Cone and the front lower step doubler will require a more visible break, maybe ten degrees. Cleco the pieces in place after each use of the tool to see how they look.

As for what you have done so far, try clecoing the sheet in place at each rivet hole and see how it looks. The crease will remain, but some of the waviness may go away. You might consider placing the sheet on a hard flat surface and rolling the edge with a small wall paer roller to remove some of the break.

This is why Van's had you do the bottom sheet first, as it does'nt showw as badly.

Art Pennanen
 
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