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T/U panel space

J

JHines

Well Known Member
Working on my CAD fantasy panel.

Does anyone have hard measurements on how much room there is on the panel F-703 on a 9A tipup when the canopy is closed? From all the photos I've seen posted it appears the frame only obstructs the area above the upper rivet line. Also, so far I've assumed the curved brace made from Al angle at the top edge of the panel is about twice the distance from the rivet line to the top edge of F-703?

Also, what is the width of the flange of the panel ribs?

Thanks,
 
About 3/4"

If you are clear of the angle, you will be clear of the tube that comes down in front of the top endge when the canopy is closed. This is based on the -7A, but I think it's the same.
 
Hey I've been noodling over my panel a 7-A tip up and discovered that the Firewall to Panel ribs are right smack dab in the middle of where I want to put stuff. So I called Vans' Tech support and was told that I can cut and move those supports about anywhere I want and it seems most builders do. All that sub panel stuff can be cut up pretty much as you need. Not really your question but I hope it helps you.
 
Keep in mind that if you use the canopy stiffeners (which somebody told me come with the kit now...not 100% sure about that), they run diagonally down and forward, and prevent you from putting any really "deep" stuff up at the top of the panel. Just something to keep in mind when doing your layout.
 
Rivethead said:
Hey I've been noodling over my panel a 7-A tip up and discovered that the Firewall to Panel ribs are right smack dab in the middle of where I want to put stuff. So I called Vans' Tech support and was told that I can cut and move those supports about anywhere I want and it seems most builders do. All that sub panel stuff can be cut up pretty much as you need. Not really your question but I hope it helps you.
Click to expand...
There are many ways to move the rib(s).

I moved the left one by purchasing and modifying an extra rib. There are pictures here. Just scroll down to the 1/9/06 entry.

Others have used AA to make the flange, either way will work.
 
T/U panel building.

I put items that aren't to deep just below the angle that runs around the top.

Dan, the canopy stiffener is standard with the -9.

I moved my left panel rib by cutting it at the next bulkhead and using two angle strips to reattach it to the bulkhead.

I didn't install the ejection/canopy removal system, as it wouldn't let me place my radios where I wanted them. I can still remove my canopy, but I need to get under the panel and loosen two adel clamps that hold the pins in.

I didn't add a switch/CB extension to the bottom of my panel, but asked Vans to a new panel blank that was one inch taller. This allowed me to place two smaller EFIS in an over/under arrangement.

There were two places in my radio placement that caused be to cut the bottom of the next bulkhead at it bottom edge. I reinforced these places in that bulkhead by using three pieces of .063x3/4x3/4 angle. One piece on each side and one on the bottom.

Hope this helps you with you panel planning. I have some pictures I could post if my description is not clear.

Kent
 
Thanks!

Great info guys...thanks.

Oh and Dan C. it was your site that sold me on RVs. Still remember rushing home to the computer every day for a year or more, hoping an update was posted that day...

Being a former spam can driver, I can still remember the first time I looked at the photos of the shoddy "certified" work done on your Mooney for lots of $$$. I felt exactly like you did.
 
Jonathan,

Does this mean you are getting ready to write that check?

Come on by some time and I'll give you a ride now that my 40 is flown off.
 
Bill,

At this point it only depends on how the business goes this year...working my butt off to make it happen...the next 3 months will tell.

Congrats on finishing Phase I. I'm a bit hesitant to take you up on your offer...I hear those rides are mighty expensive :D
 
More expensive than you will ever know.

I once thought building was expensive but I'm starting to find that flying is even more so.

Come on in, the water is fine! :D
 
still way cheaper than certified

A matter of perspective.

If you've "paid as you built" and don't have loan payments, the monthly costs for hanger/tiedown, gas, maintenance, insurance, etc. may seem like a daunting new expense.

On the other hand, my viewpoint is coming from having owned a C-172 that cost about $900/month in fixed expenses before flying hour 1.

Considering the non-"Cessna" parts, MOGAS, and "free" labor, I don't see how an RV could fail to be cheaper, or at least give you a lot more flight hours per dollar.
 
Speaking of the cost of building and flying: My airplane is paid for, my hangar is paid for, it is great fun accepting the illusion that that 2.2hr flight only cost the $63 in fuel I just put in... If only just for a minute, when compared to what used to be "normal" for many of us having to write a big fat check of many hundreds of dollars after "getting" to fly a spam can for a few hours.
 
scard said:
Speaking of the cost of building and flying: My airplane is paid for, my hangar is paid for, it is great fun accepting the illusion that that 2.2hr flight only cost the $63 in fuel I just put in... If only just for a minute, when compared to what used to be "normal" for many of us having to write a big fat check of many hundreds of dollars after "getting" to fly a spam can for a few hours.
Click to expand...
Ditto for me. However, I do have to pay $90/mth for the dirt under the hangar, put money away for next year's insurance, and there is that engine reserve thing. Oh, I also have to save money to have it painted. I don't want to hear you guys busting on me in two years like you do to Dan.
 
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